Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (satbuilder) — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 20:46:30 GMT

In particular, David Bolin's form making tool.

http://www.bamboorodmaking.com/html/jigs__tool_building.html

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (RokSAN) — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 03:03:27 GMT

Yesterday I start with filing 60° canal in still form and must admit frankly that is one big hard work. In only 1h I destroy triangle file. I don't know how you guys make your still form like that. When I was preparing the form and the distends batwing steps on form (every 5'' .005'' withers) I didn't know on which depth must I start to filing. I start from but side...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (RokSAN) — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 03:29:23 GMT

Hello to all!

Firs of all forgive me about my English! inside mic, you can dead-nuts the .00577" spacing of the forms fairly easily, contrary to what is written in the penrose directions. All depends on how anal you want to get...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (Battenkiller) — Thu, 28 May 2009 01:35:10 GMT

Titelines wrote:

Well, the Garrison forms are on 5" centers and have a slope of .001" per inch, so I'm not sure how you got a slope of .006" per every five inches. Most all the tapers available out there today are based on 5" centers of the adjusting bolts. Did you make your forms on 6" adjusting bolt centers? A difference of .001" of slop per 5" could...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (Lewis B) — Wed, 27 May 2009 07:57:15 GMT

things I learned were: dont use hot rolled steel, Its real real hard to file, use cold rolled like the instuction say! Second, If you are like me and own a cheap table top drill press, use 3/4 stock, one inch is even better. The reason is that its hard to drill all the hole dead center. With larger stock your holes can be slightly off center and your file will not hit the bolts when your filing the groove. Looking down the side of my forms you can easily see that my bolt holes are not all on...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (Titelines) — Fri, 22 May 2009 10:37:15 GMT

Battenkiller wrote:

JimmyB11 wrote:
After reading all of this and after making 4 sets of forms in a machine shop my advice to anyone thinking about doing this is to a) spend the money on decent forms or b) find a second hand set. It is so much work with no guarantee that the forms will be decent. The whole draw filing thing is scary. Spend your time and...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (Battenkiller) — Thu, 21 May 2009 21:13:02 GMT

JimmyB11 wrote:
After reading all of this and after making 4 sets of forms in a machine shop my advice to anyone thinking about doing this is to a) spend the money on decent forms or b) find a second hand set. It is so much work with no guarantee that the forms will be decent. The whole draw filing thing is scary. Spend your time and effort on a more fruitful rod building adventure.

It was seeing three...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (JimmyB11) — Sat, 16 May 2009 20:50:18 GMT

After reading all of this and after making 4 sets of forms in a machine shop my advice to anyone thinking about doing this is to a) spend the money on decent forms or b) find a second hand set. It is so much work with no guarantee that the forms will be decent. The whole draw filing thing is scary. Spend your time and effort on a more fruitful rod building adventure.

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (Battenkiller) — Wed, 13 May 2009 00:50:56 GMT

I've restarted my forms after about 4-5 years of sitting. They are based on the Penrose instructions and the Lawrence Waldron adjustment method, with a few minor tweaks by myself and the machine shop I hired to do the hard part.

Notice I said "hard part", not laborious part. The hardest part of the whole process to me has seemed to get the two bars perfectly aligned and the adjusting hardware drilled and tapped precisely. I...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (troutcreek) — Mon, 20 Apr 2009 21:11:47 GMT

I used the same instructions and my forms came out pretty good. The only suggestions I have deal with the basics.
* Wear safety glasses and gloves. You are going to make a lot of sharp metal chips.
* Use chalk on your mill file to prevent clogging.
* Cutting the grove on the tip section first is a really good tip. It is easy to cut to deep.
* Buy good quality drill and taps . In fact buy several taps because of wear (I used 2).
* Buy taps from industrial house....

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (msf) — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 13:20:41 GMT

There are a number of hints I would give that aren't mentioned in the Penrose directions. IMHO:

-Use a prick punch and dead blow to start your holes (1 strike only), a magnifying lense helps a lot too. Use a center punch after that and regular hammer and do 3 or 4 firm knocks. Then you can use a center drill to start the holes. This is how I did the holes and they are right on.

-Draw filing should not be done with a "back and forth" rubbing. You should...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (canerodscom) — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 12:28:55 GMT

mattcliff,

The easiest way to keep the drill from skipping involves two steps. First, use a center-punch to put a small "dent" in the forms at exactly the right place. Second, use a center-drill to start each hole. A center-drill is a short, stiff drill with a 60* point. You drill only deep enough to get a good 60* angle hole started. That 60* hole keeps your regular jobber drill moving in the right direction.

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (mattcliff) — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 12:01:13 GMT

I made some forms per Penrose about 10 years ago. By far the biggest problem I had was trying to get my holes straight. As I learned the hard way, the bit tends to "skip" or wander across the face of the hard steel when it first comes into contact with it, and this can get the hole started at an angle, which is difficult or impossible to correct. If anyone with experience in metalworking techniques has some suggestions for dealing with this, it would probably be pretty helpful.

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (msf) — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 12:13:45 GMT

He states the depths at each end of the shallow side are 0.025" and .155" but I can;t find where he gives the fatter side dims. Does anyone know the depths of the reverse side ends?

Also, just as an aside, how is a "swelled butt" form made? I would assume you have to adjust the angle by increasing the 0.001" per inch taper. I would think that the form could only be used for swelled butts after that.

Thanks,
Kris

Added:

...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (thousandstar) — Mon, 07 Jul 2008 17:01:11 GMT

I just finished mine today! I used a measuring tape.

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (gmreeves) — Mon, 07 Jul 2008 16:18:28 GMT

Yes. Just do the best you can.

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (chrislee85) — Sat, 05 Jul 2008 13:26:14 GMT

Is a tape measure sufficient for measuring the placement for drilling the holds for the sholder bolts, dowels, etc?

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (chrislee85) — Mon, 30 Jun 2008 21:35:05 GMT

Another question regarding the drilling of the holes. To make sure I have this right, let me state what I know and someone correct me if I'm wrong.

1. Drill holes every 5", starting 1" from end for the set screws. (Won't one end have a screw more than 1" from the end? Does this matter?)

2. Drill holes in between these 5" intervals for the dowels.

It reads to me, in the instructions that there are additional holes 9/16" from the...

Re: Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (chrislee85) — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 22:30:10 GMT

I finally got all of the first side filed down. I unclamped the bars and noticed that they were no longer square. I can attribute this to me waiting 6 months of them sitting around and going through a move across town. I have clamped them temporarily together until I can scribe them and start drilling. I am concerened that they might not be as accurate/precise in rodmaking. What are ya'lls opinions?

Thanks,
Chris

Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms

feeds@yuku.com (chrislee85) — Wed, 02 Apr 2008 13:06:38 GMT

I have some bad news....I now have all the supplies to begin making some planing forms. I am using Thomas Penrose' instructions. For those of you who have already followed his instructions, does anyone have any tips or advice that might help me out?

Thanks,
Chris