Automotive clear-coat: report

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (WhoBeBoo) — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 10:28:32 GMT

lee...this is a very interesting discussion. i have restored several antique cars and the new two part automotive paints are very very very durable compared to anything "one part".

however im concerned about applying that two part over my polyurethane finished wraps. or, if i spray the entire blank and then wrap will my poly stick to the automotive finish?

**********
regarding the two part, yes be sure to get the right respirators...the stuff in the two part...

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (flyslinger) — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 21:42:17 GMT

greendrake ll wrote:
Lee, I don't have any experience with using it on the rod,but I had my brother clear coat 1/2 cocobolo reelseats with an automotive clearcoat because the wood is so oily that after sanding I couldn't get varnish or tru-oil either one to set up before the oilyness started seeping back out.He put an additive in it to make it set up even faster than it normally would and they look great.Of course...

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (oddsnrods) — Sun, 21 Jun 2009 13:28:28 GMT

That the ideal protection for blued ferrules is dilute 50/50 horologists (watchmakers) lacquer. Thin, clear and very hard, dip the parts before mounting. It does not have the gummy appearance of dipped varnish. Works on wood too. Bullet proof for heavy use.

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (Lee Koch) — Sun, 21 Jun 2009 13:02:38 GMT

For what it's worth, I spray both my blued metal parts and my wood reelseat inserts at the same time as the bamboo, and so far, it has protected both. The only coating for blueing that I've seen hold up to even moderate use. Time will tell. Lee

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (PA Limestoner) — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 17:11:48 GMT

I have one sprayed in 1990 and it still looks brand new. Rich Roseborough in Pittsburgh was one of the first if not the first rodmaker to try this, back in the early eighties. BASF product RV-86/87 sprayed with a Sata Mini Jet touch up gun. His rod today looks like a half assed refinish job, brand new looking varnish with soiled cork grip and fading bluing on the metal work. No visible degradation on this two part clear coat that is well over 25 years old. No flexing agent was used - this...

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (grangaris) — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 13:09:48 GMT

sherwin williams make an automotive clear that is preflexed and is tack free in 10minutes. you can sand it and polish it in a half hour.its called hpc.

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (Lee Koch) — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 16:18:18 GMT

In truth, I use whatever the paintshop guys hand me after I tell them what i want to do with it. I think the rods have all been sprayed with "Refinisher's Select", RS6040 resin and RS 9811, 9812 or 9813 hardener, depending on ambient temp. Tech data sheet calls for 4:1 which is what I mix. No reducer called for with this stuff. As an experiment I mixed 10% reducer into one batch, but the finish sanded through too easily - won't try that again. Unless something bad...

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (fishketcha) — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 15:26:14 GMT

Mine are holding up just as you described. Almost bullet proof. Thanks for the update. What brand and ratio are you using?

Wayne

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (Lee Koch) — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 15:01:09 GMT

I imagine, Wayne, that you will not be surprised to hear that the rod looks exactly as it did a year ago, in perfect shape. As are the 3 other rods I've done the same way since.

I fished it hard for a week in CO last year, some pretty big fish, and I might (ahem) even have whacked it a few times with a bead head (are we supposed to admit that we do that?) Fished it when appropriate since, and it was on the rack at SRG last year. Can't find flakes, dings, nicks, blemishes,...

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (fishketcha) — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 14:34:44 GMT

Lee,
Can you tell us how your automotive clearcoated rod is holding up?

Wayne

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (Lee Koch) — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 21:49:50 GMT

I use clearcoat on signs, not cars, and my limited observations make me want to believe in what Wayne has to say. But you never know! Hopefully, the rod will get a full workout on the Frying Pan this July, and I'll be able to report back! Those catalyzed paints they have now are just plain amazing!

Lee

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (greendrake ll) — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 17:46:14 GMT

Lee, I don't have any experience with using it on the rod,but I had my brother clear coat 1/2 cocobolo reelseats with an automotive clearcoat because the wood is so oily that after sanding I couldn't get varnish or tru-oil either one to set up before the oilyness started seeping back out.He put an additive in it to make it set up even faster than it normally would and they look great.Of course reelseats don't flex much

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (fishketcha) — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 12:44:32 GMT

I also have been painting cars for 28 years and rods for 5 years. If you use an acrylic urethane clearcoat with a catalyst, you will not need to use flex additive. I have made icicles with this clear and tied them in knots without breaking. I have only a handful of rods painted with this clear and so far they are holding up rather well. My painting procedure is to spray two coats onto the blanks standing upright with a conventional hvlp gravity...

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (Lee Koch) — Sun, 08 Jun 2008 11:52:20 GMT

thanks for the replies, guys! I'll look into the additive, and in the meantime, we'll see what happens with this rod. I'll update after the rod has had a workout for a while.

Lee

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (grangaris) — Sun, 08 Jun 2008 11:03:59 GMT

i also have been a painter for 25 yrs. i would also suggest a flex in the clear , also if you like amber colors you could tint the clear and also flatten the clear depending on the gloss you like!

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (grass n glue) — Sun, 08 Jun 2008 08:38:27 GMT

Hi Lee, I spent 20 yrs. in auto body and auto painting. I would suggest using flex additive in the clear. In time ,I believe it will flake off with out the flex additive. I believe if one likes C/P wraps spraying would be best as you wouldn't have the pressure of the varnish(dip tube) on the wraps to bleed into. Spaying dries faster. I thought about spraying rods have all the equipment .One could really up production. I like amber color varnish though. Good luck

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (David Bolin) — Sat, 07 Jun 2008 22:21:11 GMT

Lee,

Interesting... I wonder if you could fast cure the clear-coat with a UV gun.

David

Re: Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (canerodscom) — Sat, 07 Jun 2008 15:13:29 GMT

Thanks for the report Lee. I look forward to seeing the rod in Colorado.

Harry

Automotive clear-coat: report

feeds@yuku.com (Lee Koch) — Sat, 07 Jun 2008 13:41:53 GMT

Well, yesterday, for the first time, I finished a rod with automotive clear-coat. It's a 2-part spray-on finish, acrylic polymer with a hardener mixed in. Sprayed it with an auto-detailing HVLP spray gun, 2 coats about 10 minutes apart. Supported the rod horizontally, and sprayed left-to-right, turning the rod 3 or 4 times to cover the whole rod. Held a sheet of cardboard a couple inches behind the rod to catch overspray and minimize back-spray. You need good light to see how much...