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        <title>Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive</title>
        <link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/20359/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html</link>
        <description>
        <![CDATA[ Has anyone used this particular adhesive? There&#39;s a couple of different places that sell this brand. I ran across it from Aircraft Spruce. http://www.aircraftspruce...og/wppages/cascophen.php. Seems to be a little cheaper on the
pocketbook.

Dave
 ]]>
        </description>

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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/117668/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-117668</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I built a hot box. It&#39;s a cabinet lined with r18 foil-backed bubble wrap I got at lowes, and it also has one of those clip-on lights you can get at lowes
for $8. In the winter I use a 100 W bulb, in the summer a 60W bulb. Keeps the temp at about 95F which is great for varnish and rod glues. I did this as
suggested by Mike Brooks and it works very well. My garage where the cabinet is located is 50 degrees in the winter too cold for drying glue and I don&#39;t
want the vapors inside my... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (BigTJ)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/117668</guid>
			<pubDate>Fri, 16 Jan 2009 15:09:03 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/117563/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-117563</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Try going to this site <a target="_blank" href="http://www.bamboorodmaking.com/html/drying_cabinets1.html">http://www.bamboorodmakin...tml/drying_cabinets1.html</a> for some
ideas so you don&#39;t have to warm up the whole house. I believe Tom Smithwick said to cure it for 24hrs at 70deg.
<br> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Dnb57)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/117563</guid>
			<pubDate>Fri, 16 Jan 2009 01:44:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/117511/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-117511</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I was getting ready to glue up two rods with Epon and this thread has me considering Resorcinol for one of them just to see how I like the stuff.
<br>
<br>
I keep my house COLD cuz there is this dang recession and it costs too much to heat the place. It&#39;s so cold in here I have to sit in front an open
refrigerator just to warm up! And the workshop in the basement is even colder. Just kidding...but the house IS below 70.
<br>
So, how is one to keep the glued up rod section over 70 degrees?... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (WhoBeBoo)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/117511</guid>
			<pubDate>Thu, 15 Jan 2009 19:29:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/117021/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-117021</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Yeah just wet paper towel on the binder, that gets most everything, but whatever I miss seems to flake off over time esp. inside my pvc guide tubes. I
don&#39;t seem to get that much on my binder for whatever reason, I spin kind of slow I guess. I keep a 5 gallon bucket full of water nearby, I can dunk stuff
in it like my tootbrush, paper towel, binding cord, a sponge whatever, it&#39;s really helpful to have it there just keep it somewhere you don&#39;t kick it
over!
<br> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (BigTJ)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/117021</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 23:24:29 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/117004/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-117004</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Do you use water to clean up your Binder? I too, like the glue lines that resorcinol leaves. Those are good tips, thanks
<br> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Dnb57)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/117004</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 22:00:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116980/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116980</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ The trick of wiping down the blank with a barely damp (not wet) sponge (from the Garrison book) works well for me for cleaning the blank before I start
straightening the blank.  I do one section at at time, glue, bind, wipe, straighten. I pull the string off after 24 hours, file with a mill bastard then sand
with 220, 600 and final with 0000 steel wool. You probably know this but I&#39;ll say it anyway leave some glue after filing, you just want to take the high
stuff off to make the sanding... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (BigTJ)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116980</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:00:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116945/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116945</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ The tinted glue lines on a rod glued with resourcinol should be viewed as a badge of honor. They speak of the care the maker took in selecting the very best
componants available when they made the rod.
<br>
<br>
fishbum ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (fishbum)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116945</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 16:59:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116929/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116929</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I&#39;m not a maker, but FYI, here&#39;s an example of a rod with resourcinol glue lines. Personally, I don&#39;t think the glue lines are objectionable.
<br>
<img height="574" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/artcz/Henseller66.jpg" width="1024" alt="image">
<br> ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (brooksriver)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116929</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 15:42:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116922/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116922</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Dave - It can be done that way, and then you are sure. My procedure is to get the enamel off at the beginning of final planing. To get Resourcinol off the
blank, I carefully file until it&#39;s almost all gone, then finish with a card scraper with a burr rolled into the edge. The burr gets just under the surface
and lifts off the remaining glue, and it also leaves a smooth, polished looking surface. If you look carefully using a strong light source, any remaining glue
residue will show as a... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Tom Smithwick)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116922</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 15:15:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116902/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116902</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Tom,
<br>
When it comes to splotches, do you need to leave the enamel on the bamboo until after the glue up?
<br>
Dave ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (weightforward)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116902</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 12:37:03 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116871/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116871</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ John,
<br>
I use denatured alcohol in my bubble buster to burn any fuzz off my wraps and I use my lamp to remove any bubbles in my threadmaster coating on my wraps. I use
isopropyl 90% to cleanup any epoxy that gets on my hands or my blanks and to cleanup my tools. I haven&#39;t used resorinol before, that&#39;s why I was asking
for an explanation. I have built several flyrods over the years. I don&#39;t do any woodworking so I&#39;m not versed in varnishes or what you would use for
thinning... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Dnb57)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116871</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 02:08:32 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116864/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116864</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Just a side comment here about thinning glues or anything else. Isopropyl alcohol is rubbing alcohol used for rubbing sore muscles and cleaning areas on your
body where you are going to get an injection, it is NOT a thinner for any known form of glue, varnish, shellac or lacquer. if you have some, put it back in the
bathroom where it belongs, it&#39;s not useful in any way for making rods. What you want to mix shellac with, thin epoxy, clean a blank or put in your alcohol
lamp is denatured... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (john channer)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116864</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 00:11:23 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116854/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116854</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Thank you. I&#39;m going to do the resorcinol as planned. I&#39;ll take your advice Tom and Tom and do a section at a time until I get the feel of the process.
I was thinking of ordering a file from Bellinger to remove the glue. Are you using denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol to thin the mixture?
<br>
Dave
<br> ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Dnb57)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116854</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2009 22:49:08 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116840/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116840</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Tom&#39;s advice is right on as usual. I&#39;ve known him for over 15 years and he is one of the most knowledgeable builders around. I would add a few
recommendations of my own. Keep the liquid resin in the refrigerator until needed - all urea formaldehyde glues have a certain shelf life, and refrigerating it
extends that shelf life. Buy new glue every year from a supplier that sells enough of it to always guarantee fresh product. Glue is relatively cheap, and 20-30
hours of hard work can be... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (PA Limestoner)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116840</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2009 21:57:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116837/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116837</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Dave - Clean up is with alcohol. The glue dries very tough, and can not be scraped off the blank. You do have to file and sand. The only glue you can unbind
when it is not fully cured is a slow epoxy, like Epon.  All the other glues have to be fully cured before being handled. Drying time is on the can, and varies
quite a bit with temperature. Yes, you will get more working time by chilling the glue. My workshop is usually between 60-70°, and I have never had a problem
getting a 3 piece rod... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Tom Smithwick)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116837</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2009 21:38:04 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116830/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116830</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I strongly second Toms advice. Go ahead and flame your cane darkly and it won&#39;t show the glue lines as much, but you will learn a lot about glue lines and
what you need to do to correct  mistakes.
<br> ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (canesmith)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116830</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2009 20:29:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116825/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116825</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Tom,
<br>
Thanks for chiming in. Are you able to clean up with water? I thought I read somewhere that filing the blank instead of scraping was better for cleaning the
blank. Do you rebind the blank after cleanup? How long should it hang in the drying cabinet. Do you have more working time if the glue is sitting in cold water
or a bowl of ice?
<br>
Dave
<br> ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Dnb57)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116825</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2009 19:39:21 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116819/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116819</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Dave - I&#39;m going to be a contrarian and suggest that you do use it for your first rod, because it will show you your mistakes, if any,  which will help you
eliminate them on your next rod. Some other things to think about. Like Urac, the glue needs some moisture in the cane to work. If you just heat treated the
cane, either wait a couple weeks, or slightly dampen the strips. Add a small amount of alcohol to thin the glue. I mix by volume, which is 4 parts liquid to 3
parts powder, if I... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Tom Smithwick)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116819</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2009 18:51:38 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116778/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116778</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Thanks Jerry, that&#39;s more what I was looking for. I appreciate everybody&#39;s input concerning glue lines, but I &#39;m more interested in being able to
finish a blank before everything sets up.
<br>
Dave
<br> ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Dnb57)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116778</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2009 15:40:30 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/116731/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html#reply-116731</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Hi Dave
<br>
<br>
There is no requirement to heat set URAC..Nelson variety. The only drawback I saw with Cascophen was what I thought was a pretty short working time..maybe a
min or two. The binder cord was setting up on the blank when I went too slowly. Just my experience.
<br>
<br>
Regards
<br>
<br>
Jerry ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (J W Foster)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/116731</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jan 2009 10:00:52 GMT</pubDate>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Resorcinol Formaldehyde Adhesive ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/20359/t/Resorcinol-Formaldehyde-Adhesive.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Has anyone used this particular adhesive? There&#39;s a couple of different places that sell this brand. I ran across it from Aircraft Spruce. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/cascophen.php.">http://www.aircraftspruce...og/wppages/cascophen.php.</a> Seems to be a little cheaper on the
pocketbook.
<br>
Dave
<br> ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Dnb57)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/20359</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 10 Jan 2009 20:12:33 GMT</pubDate>
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