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        <title>CP Failure</title>
        <link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/22903/t/CP-Failure.html</link>
        <description>
        <![CDATA[ I know this has been discussed previously ad-nauseum, but.....I&#39;m having a terrible time with CP failure on granger green--I&#39;m using up to 5 coats and
still getting wierd mottling and the deadly pea-green effect. I&#39;m using Al&#39;s with MOW varnish. I almost thinking that perhaps the thread itself is
contaminated, oiled or something-I&#39;ve taken to washing my hands and wiping them off with a rag soaked with mineral spirits-anyone have a suggestion here?
should I try thinned CP... ]]>
        </description>

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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/131553/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-131553</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ The reason why it&#39;s bleeding when you dip is because the pressure on the wraps from being immersed in liquid. The same reason why your ears pop when you go
to the bottom of the deep end of the swimming pool. The varnish finds it&#39;s way in past the CP. I use Al&#39;s and go 5-6 coats full strength. I keep a
stack of cut pieces of thread next to me when I apply the cp. I slop every coat on and get a bunch on the blank on both sides of the wrap. I then take the cut
piece of thread and... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Middle Branch)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/131553</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 29 Mar 2009 02:21:19 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/131531/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-131531</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ what I&#39;m trying to figure out is-----I used  4-5 coats of Al&#39;s-(3 diluted,3 full strength) and 3 coats of varnish before dipping--all the bleed-thru
was under the guide feet---seems like with all that, the silk would have to be saturated. Now stripping and rewraping entire rod--wouldn&#39;t you think the
bleed-thru would occur when you put on the FIRST coat of varnish? (instead of the dip coat) ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (greyreefer)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/131531</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2009 21:10:51 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/131527/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-131527</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I had to add my two cents worth here and say I&#39;ve come to hate useing color preserver also. I have had the same problems with blotches after I varnish the
entire rod. I learned to really saturate the wraps with the CP. My problem area is mostly over the guide feet. I think the varnish gets in under the thread
around the guide foot. I even took the brush and tried to get under the guides around the feet with the CP to seal it. It&#39;s a real problem. I also had a
rod I had to redo because... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (flyflkr)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/131527</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2009 20:37:10 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/131520/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-131520</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ greyreefer,
<br>
<br>
I use Gudebrod CP and cut it 50% with water. I use a brush and saturate the wraps and remove the excess. I apply any where from 4 to 6 coats. ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (bobk)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/131520</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2009 19:18:05 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/131510/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-131510</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ i use a thin piece of felt to wipe off the area under the guide loop after using a needle to feed the cp under the guide feet. i havnt noticed any problem
with it showing after varnish is applied ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (tapermaker)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/131510</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2009 18:05:50 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/131492/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-131492</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ do you have any problem with excessive amounts of CP showing under the varnish? Excess on the blank itself? ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (greyreefer)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/131492</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2009 16:00:41 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/131087/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-131087</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ KIMK is correct in that the wraps are under pressure while in the dip tank and the varnish gets under them. But here is what I found to be the problem, at
least for me, and how I eliminated it.
<br>
<br>
The varnish was getting behind the wraps by going in down along the inside of the guide foot. There is a noticeable space here particularly on the larger
guides. So, what I now do after brushing the CP on the wraps is to hold each section vertically and then drip or work the CP so that it... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (bobk)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/131087</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 25 Mar 2009 20:05:49 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/131080/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-131080</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ John, I believe your recommendation is well founded. After my first CP/varnish dip failure I gave this a lot of thought. In reviewing many posts on CP failure,
on this board and others, it seems that dipping is  often a common part of the equation. My speculation is that the pressure of the column of varnish plus the
long time that mutch of the section is imersed, leads to the varnish being forced under pressure into any unsealed fibers.
<br>
 I see two possible solutions. Avoid dipping over... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (kimk)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/131080</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 25 Mar 2009 19:32:15 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/131079/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-131079</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ It looks like A.J. and Carlin both use c.p. and dip their rods and don&#39;t have a problem. Maybe they will chime in. ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (grass n glue)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/131079</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 25 Mar 2009 19:12:29 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/130993/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-130993</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Grey;
<br>
I highly recommend to anyone who wants to color preserve wraps is to not dip varnish after wrapping. Either spray or brush varnish after the wraps are done or
varnish the blank first then wrap over it. Dip varnishing over color preserved wraps is highly frustrating and has a high failure rate. The old rods you see
that all have color preserver on the thread were done with either lacquer or shellac then either sprayed or brushed, the big production houses didn&#39;t dip,
their... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (john channer)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/130993</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 25 Mar 2009 08:48:52 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/130862/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-130862</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ It all depends on what you want your final wraps to look like. Transparent, semi transparent or completely opaque. And whether you want the silk color to
remain true or darken a bit. All of the methods above give you different final looks. A test stick with side by side comparisons of the different methods and
your color of silk, is a very worthwhile exercise before you decide. ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (oldfishbrain)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/130862</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Mar 2009 15:35:22 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/130855/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-130855</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Try using (freshly made) Shellac. 2-3 coats in 1-lb. cut and 1-2 coats in 2-lb. cut. The 1-lb. cut is mostly alcohol and WILL get into all your wraps. It will
also prep them for the 2-lb. cut which is a perfect sealer. ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Ben Kann)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/130855</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Mar 2009 14:06:10 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/130832/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-130832</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ this may be heresy but I put on 2 coats of Varathane which seems to be the perfect sealer - and then a good quality spar varnish and have never had a problem -
 Works for me but then I have no idea what it might all look like a few years from now and my total life time out put is only 23 (with 24 and 25 in the works). ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (marcusw)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/130832</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Mar 2009 11:16:43 GMT</pubDate>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/130709/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-130709</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Hi Guys,  Yeah, it&#39;s a pain.  My system is to; thin it a little, put it on with a needle, be sure it&#39;s on long enough to penetrate, wipe it entirely
off, let it dry, maybe do it twice, then plastic coat with polyurethane.  When you dip it&#39;ll seep up from underneath.  I hate it.  Jay Edwards
<br> ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (bluejayee)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/130709</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Mar 2009 17:58:17 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/130694/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-130694</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Those CPs can drive you crazy. I use Briliance II  Have found out that in order to be guaranteed not to have bleed throughs I had to go 6 coats of a 50/50
diluted CP (with distiled water) folowed by 6 coats of full strength CP. A pain indeed, but did not have to hold my breath when I started varnishing. Less of a
pain than having to cut out wraps and start from scratch. All solvent based CPs darkened the color of the wraps considerably and were semi transparent (you
could still see the guide... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (oldfishbrain)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/130694</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Mar 2009 17:12:52 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/130693/t/CP-Failure.html#reply-130693</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Yes, Now you know why so many folks HATE CP. I have never used Al&#39;s and only have experience with the original Brilliance ( water based) and Aero Gloss (
lacquer).
<br>
 For either one, I apply 3 coats cut 50/50 with the proper thinner and another 2 or 3 full strength. I apply by rubbing it in with a dubbing needle, and I
really rub it in, using the side of the needle to massage the thread much like burnishing. I think the problems arise when the thread fibers are not totally
saturated... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (kimk)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/130693</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Mar 2009 17:08:00 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ CP Failure ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/22903/t/CP-Failure.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I know this has been discussed previously ad-nauseum, but.....I&#39;m having a terrible time with CP failure on granger green--I&#39;m using up to 5 coats and
still getting wierd mottling and the deadly pea-green effect. I&#39;m using Al&#39;s with MOW varnish. I almost thinking that perhaps the thread itself is
contaminated, oiled or something-I&#39;ve taken to washing my hands and wiping them off with a rag soaked with mineral spirits-anyone have a suggestion here?
should I try thinned CP... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (greyreefer)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/22903</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Mar 2009 13:42:06 GMT</pubDate>
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