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        <title>why not soak?</title>
        <link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/25672/t/why-not-soak-.html</link>
        <description>
        <![CDATA[  I just rough plane 6 strips that I soaked and it seems like the way to go, but like all good ideas,there must be someone that thinks differently about it.
Does anyone have anything negitve to say about soaking before planing?Any long term affects, pros or cons. all replies are welcome.         Lewis ]]>
        </description>

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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/145626/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-145626</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Drop me a note the next time you make a pilgrimage to the Red and I&#39;ll meet you on the river. I need to test out the latest rod. Hopefully they will slow
down the generating soon.
<br>
<br>
Larry
<br> ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (flyman)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/145626</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Jul 2009 01:26:04 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/145379/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-145379</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Thanks Flyman, I havent tried nodeless,maybe some day ,but still learning this rod building thing and feel that I better take it one step at a time. I thought
about contacting the supply house and see if we can work something out with the other halve of the culm, but I decided its best to move on to a differant
supplier. The one I`ve been dealing with has been very slow and thier prices are about the same as other dealers and like your culm ,it was &quot;hand graded
one piece at a time&quot;.... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Lewis B)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/145379</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 06 Jul 2009 07:06:57 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/145366/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-145366</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I had mold issues with my second rod. The cane was supposed to be special graded, but was full of gray fuzz. The nodes had black stains and when stress tested
most of them broke. After getting pissy about it, I got the calm replaced. Now wouldn&#39;t you know it, part of the new one was moldy too. I&#39;m on my
second rod from that calm and only a couple of strips have failed the extreme bend stress test. Having had a crash course in moldy bamboo, I can spot the tell
tale signs at the end and... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (flyman)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/145366</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Jul 2009 22:56:02 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/145260/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-145260</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Canewrap, Yes I have been checking each strip to make sure there are no weak spots. This rod will end up as one of those &quot;back up rods&quot; but its
always fun building and learning <img src="http://static.yuku.com//domainskins/bypass/img/smileys/tongue.gif" alt="image"> . If in the future I get a piece of
cane like this one  I`ll know better. ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Lewis B)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/145260</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Jul 2009 04:49:24 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/145222/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-145222</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ If its moldy inside I would not use it. Chances are there are some weak points being created by that mold. Are you doing any stress testing on the strips after
you split them out, so as to not have a rod with a serious weakness in it? ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Canewrap)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/145222</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Jul 2009 18:04:11 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/145218/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-145218</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Ok. I`ll take flamming off the table. I can live with it the way it is. I was hoping for a blond rod but thats the way it goes sometimes. I split open the
other halve of the culm and it is moldy inside also. I can flame it before I do anything esle to it. You learn as you go! It sure helps to have fine folks like
yo`al to help me out. Thanks           Lewis ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Lewis B)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/145218</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Jul 2009 15:19:59 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/145167/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-145167</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Yes Harry is right DONT flame
<br>
You will burn the blank and you will end up with a noddle
<br>
Colour the blank with stains, pens take your pick.
<br>
<br>
<br>
Gary ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (bbamboo)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/145167</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Jul 2009 08:32:35 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/145160/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-145160</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ If the section is already glued and sanded, you should not flame it. You&#39;ll burn the corners and/or it will delaminate. To color it, you can use Potassium
Permanganate. My friend Jeff Fultz sells a ready made cane browning PP kit.
<br>
<br>
Harry ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (canerodscom)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/145160</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Jul 2009 08:22:19 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/145155/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-145155</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Harry, I just finished the tip section. After cleaning all the extra glue and lightly sanding, I noticed a darker area about mid way down the tip. It was not
consistant wit the nodes although nodes were darkened also. The cane hade a grey color to it on the pith side and as I planed it I noticed a much darker color
on the power fobers. Im afraid that it may have been mold . the setcion &quot;feels&quot; ok but this isnt going to be a blond rod as I hoped. Some replies
stated that they have... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Lewis B)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/145155</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Jul 2009 06:29:16 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144909/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144909</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Hi Harry
<br>
<br>
Just reading your post on working wet bamboo,
<br>
Never had a problem with the colour
<br>
<br>
Gary  from the UK.
<br>
 
<br> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (bbamboo)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144909</guid>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Jul 2009 13:47:31 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144735/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144735</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I was investigating the ammonia fuming process to try and get the same color that Heddon and Granger rods have and ran across an old article or book describing
several methods of coloring woods from staining to fuming and it described their process as it was reported back then....(this is from memory and is correct
except maybe for time discrepancies)...basically, they took the strips and put them in a big drum, sealed it, filled it with water, then heated the water to
boiling that produced... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (nwdlj)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144735</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 12:07:24 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144721/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144721</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ <blockquote>
  <strong class="quote-title">canerodscom wrote:</strong>
  <hr>
  So I soaked these strips for a day or two. And they came out CONSIDERABLY darker than they were originally. 
  <br>
  <br>
    
</blockquote>I had a similar experiance. I delaminated a hollow butt section with too much heat while getting a kink out of it. After making a new section I
used the heat gun to finish delaminating the bad butt. It was plenty crooked after that! I scraped the old epoxy off, bound the... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (fishbum)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144721</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 09:47:55 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144718/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144718</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Harry,
<br>
You have to stop soaking them in the Cajun Coffee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<br>
Scott ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (WIHEXROD)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144718</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 09:40:58 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144708/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144708</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Phil,
<br>
<br>
I was mostly thinking about light colored bamboo.
<br>
<br>
Lewis,
<br>
<br>
Those areas were likely toasted during straightening, as you suggest.
<br>
<br>
Though I cannot say for certain, I suspect that already heat-treated bamboo, light in color, when soaked turns considerably darker and stays that way. Again,
I&#39;m not sure of that. But here&#39;s a recent experience. Several years ago I received some bamboo from John Bradford and Bob Radasch in Texas. They had
built an... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (canerodscom)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144708</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 08:55:31 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144700/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144700</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Harry, I have some dark areas on this cane , I thought that I scorch then during straightening. Are you suggesting this might not be the case? Lewis ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Lewis B)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144700</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 06:11:38 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144699/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144699</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I flame the culm with a torch. The strips are dark to begin with.
<br>
Phil ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (HERMES2069)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144699</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 06:05:04 GMT</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144688/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144688</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Have any of you noticed a darkening of soaked strips that does not go away when the strips are dried?
<br>
<br>
HB ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (canerodscom)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144688</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 00:19:19 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144593/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144593</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Lee,
<br>
<br>
The moisture comes right out of the strips if you live in a dry environment. Even without baking mine will re-equilibrate in a week. With baking it just takes
an extra minute or two. Since I&#39;m a novice and it takes me a few weeks to get from soak to final planing there is not issue whatsoever.
<br>
<br>
If it looks like you can&#39;t get to the strips you can pull them out and put them back in and also I&#39;ve soaked for up to 9 days with no ill effects. The
longer you... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (BigTJ)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144593</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 30 Jun 2009 10:22:08 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144256/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144256</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ No need to wait before heat treating. By the time you get the angles cut and the oven heated up, they&#39;ll have dried enough. Harry Boyd&#39;s heat treating
fixtures keep the strips straight.
<br>
<br>
Soaking after heat treating, the so-called wet-wet method also works. I prefer to rough taper wet, but let the cane firm up a bit for final taper, some do both
wet. No problem with rusting planes, machines or forms. At least a couple of makers are doing for sale rods wet-wet. If you heat set... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (flyman)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144256</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 27 Jun 2009 20:55:04 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/reply/144237/t/why-not-soak-.html#reply-144237</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Thanks for all the replies, , I dont have to worry about the &quot;gank&quot; since I hand plane, and I THINK I wont have a bowing problem because I bind  each
 (6 pieces)section till they dry. Its about a gazlion degrees in my shop so Im guessing it should only take 3 or four days to dry before heat treating      
Lewis ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Lewis B)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/sreply/144237</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 27 Jun 2009 17:26:39 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ why not soak? ]]></title>
			<link>http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/25672/t/why-not-soak-.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I just rough plane 6 strips that I soaked and it seems like the way to go, but like all good ideas,there must be someone that thinks differently about it.
Does anyone have anything negitve to say about soaking before planing?Any long term affects, pros or cons. all replies are welcome.         Lewis<img src="http://static.yuku.com//domainskins/bypass/img/smileys/tongue.gif" alt="image"> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Lewis B)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://clarksclassicflyrodforum.yuku.com/topic/25672</guid>
			<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2009 19:36:33 GMT</pubDate>
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