Pressing those nasty nodes!!!

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rlnunleycom	Pressing those nasty nodes!!!		Lead	[-]
Posts: 330 09/27/2008 10:12	Tags : None With the recent thread about pressing vs sanding nodes, I thought I'd put up a page on Node Pressing. Now, this is not the ONLY way, it's just the Bob way. So read it with an open mind and enjoy it. I hope it helps someone. It may not be the method you use in the end, but maybe it will give someone an idea or two to make life just a little easier in Nodeville. I put this up as a webpage at www.rlnunley.com/nodes.htm . I think over the coming months, I'll write a few more of these about wrapping (clear wraps), splitting, tapering, etc. We'll see how it develops. Later, Bob R.L. Nunley Rodmaker
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thousandstar	Great page	#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 78 09/27/2008 11:37	Thanks for making that available. I like nice, simple and effective.
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oldfishbrain		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1191 09/27/2008 12:38	Thanks Bob, nicely done. I have saved this one and look forward to your future articles. Maker of light line nodeless bamboo fly rods avardanis@sympatico.ca
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stephen kiley		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 288 09/27/2008 13:03	thanks bob now you got me thinking again,steve
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gew3201	Nodes	#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 18 09/27/2008 14:09	Great article Bob makes me look forward to start up the winter building early. I can't wait for you next article Gary
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BigTJ		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 552 09/27/2008 15:02	Thanks so much for the great tutorial. Pressing nodes never seemed that difficult once I got the hang of the correct amount of heat. It's the time factor that was costing me, it has been taking me way too long. I was already doing similar steps but doing a few of the details wrong and that is costing me a the time and effort that would be better spent doing other things. The first is holding the strips over the heat gun. What a waste of time. I will not ever do that again. A rack will cut my time by 75%. The other thing I'm doing wrong is straightening and pressing in the same step. From now on, one step. Time to get some work in straightening nodes, I will let you know how it goes. -John
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Stephen Veefkind		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 18 09/27/2008 21:54	Great tutorial. The notch in the vise is an innovative step. How do you keep all your strips straight (as to which strip goes to which joint, which is #1-6, etc)? Is there a way to jumble the strips all together, but still know which strips came from the same culms??? thanks!
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RONBOII		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 44 09/28/2008 00:12	Great post Bob, and thanks for the link I have a question on the groove in your vise. Do you use the groove on the pith side so the node once pressed has room to level off. From reading the procedure is seems you said you put the enamel side to the groove?
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rlnunleycom		#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 332 09/28/2008 02:49	Stephen, You can't see this in the pictures, but all strips from one culm are color coded on the end. I simply paint the end of the strips from one culm with red ink, another with blue ink, another with black ink, etc. As for the position in the section, I really don't worry about that until I'm ready to heat treat, then I simply number each strip with a pencil on the butt end of the enamel side. Ronbo, You read correctly. I press the node out with the enamel side to the groove and displace the enamel upwards about .010". The reason I do this, is, you have to either sand this off on the sander to get rid of the ring before pressing or after pressing. Either way, you're going to sand about the same amount of material off at the node. Well, my thoughts are, if you're going to have to sand it away, you might as well sand it away in a defined area, so that all of your nodes are exactly the same length. The groove accomplishes this. You simply displace a finite area of the enamel side into the groove, then sand or file it off. You could do just the opposite if you wanted. Sand before pressing until the nodal ring is completely gone, then press with the pith side to the groove, displacing downward and sand that excess off. both would accomplish a similar result, it's just that displacing to the enamel side and sanding or filing afterward, lets you control all nodes to the same length. Here's my view on this... you want small nodal areas. Well, the width of a dime is relatively small. You want consistency. The groove gives you that consistency, by making all of your nodes the same finished length. But, keep in mind, what I said on the page. There are a hundred ways to do this, and they're all right... well, they're ALMOST all right! This is just one of many ways to accomplish the end goal. Bob R.L. Nunley Rodmaker
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lazylightningny		#9	[url]	[-]
Posts: 6 09/28/2008 10:54	Great advise, Bob. I've picked up a couple of time-saving tips from you. Tight lines & straight planes!
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RONBOII		#10	[url]	[-]
Posts: 45 09/28/2008 13:08	Thanks Bob for answering my question. I had always filed down the node to almost level and removed a small amount of pith on the reverse side. I pressed the node flat pushing it down into to recess i made in the pith. I like your groved vise Idea and think I'll try your method on my next rod.
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jaybird		#11	[url]	[-]
Posts: 947 09/30/2008 06:02	I use a similar method. Rather than using a set width for my vise notch, I use two pieces of aluminum angle so that I can adjust the width based on each individual node. Also, when I position the node in the vise I do so in a way where only the dip or valley in the middle on the enamel side is raised when I compress. That way when I go to finally sand the node I remove almost no surrounding material yet am able to eliminate all enamel. I end up with a very short nodal intrusion and very little difference in the appearance of the grain through the node that comes from taking too much off the enamel side.
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J W Foster		#12	[url]	[-]
Posts: 19 09/30/2008 10:14	This message is for new rodmakers.. Each step of making rods has it's own challenges and solutions. Mr. Nunley and others offer solutions to node prep, all of them are valid and will work. What I would like to suggest is that you take a few minutes and study the material. Nodes come in all shapes. Some have large surface bulges some even dip below the surface. Take some time and study the power fibers as they transition through the nodal area. You will see that they expand (spread) through the nodal area because of the increased area. http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/pics/node.jpg This is not a good picture but it more or less illustrates one example. I agree with the displacement method, but think each node type deserves different treatment. On raised nodes (as pictured) the node should probably be displaced downward. Pith against the the cutout area of the vice. This will help preserve the power fibers that have followed the upward sweep of the node. This will be less intrusive to the fibers when you sand. For depressed nodes you can leave a little rise when you sand the dam area (pith side) and place the strip with the pith on the flat side of your vice. this will displace the node upward slightly and allow you to sand the node without intruding into the surrounding fibers. Personally I have a hydraulic press in the Robert Kope style that straightens and displaces the node in one step, therefore my process is a little different than the vise method. Anyway, think about the process before you just accept any advise, from me or anyone. Regards Jerry
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gooseberryrods		#13	[url]	[-]
Posts: 556 09/30/2008 13:23	What an awesome thread.... it's nice top see that there are others who can take the time to give the nodal regions the attention they deserve! There really is an art to it. gooseberryrods
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adam trahan		#14	[url]	[-]
Posts: 139 10/01/2008 12:57	I completely agree with Jerry. I'm cutting the nodes out entirely on the next rod. The next noded rod I will build, I will study each individual node prior to treating it. grassart studio
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Marcelo Calviello		#15	[url]	[-]
Posts: 983 10/02/2008 11:22 Rod Maker	Perhaps this is useful to somebody... This is the way I work into my nodes. Working on nodes From Argentina Marcelo
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roycestearns		#16	[url]	[-]
Posts: 37 10/02/2008 17:32	Excellent write up... I've got you bookmarked and watching for more. Thanks for sharing your talent and skills.
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lazylightningny		#17	[url]	[-]
Posts: 8 10/02/2008 23:23	J W Foster wrote: This message is for new rodmakers.. Each step of making rods has it's own challenges and solutions. Mr. Nunley and others offer solutions to node prep, all of them are valid and will work. What I would like to suggest is that you take a few minutes and study the material. Nodes come in all shapes. Some have large surface bulges some even dip below the surface. Take some time and study the power fibers as they transition through the nodal area. You will see that they expand (spread) through the nodal area because of the increased area. http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/pics/node.jpg This is not a good picture but it more or less illustrates one example. I agree with the displacement method, but think each node type deserves different treatment. On raised nodes (as pictured) the node should probably be displaced downward. Pith against the the cutout area of the vice. This will help preserve the power fibers that have followed the upward sweep of the node. This will be less intrusive to the fibers when you sand. For depressed nodes you can leave a little rise when you sand the dam area (pith side) and place the strip with the pith on the flat side of your vice. this will displace the node upward slightly and allow you to sand the node without intruding into the surrounding fibers. Personally I have a hydraulic press in the Robert Kope style that straightens and displaces the node in one step, therefore my process is a little different than the vise method. Anyway, think about the process before you just accept any advise, from me or anyone. Regards Jerry This post answers my questions on depressed valleys. Thanks. I personally don't like to press the nodes sideways. I feel it damages the fibers. I try to get the gross kinks out by bending as I heat the nodes, then after I rough mill the strips to 60 deg, bind and heat treat, the rest of the kinks and sweeps come out. That's just me, though. Last Edited By: lazylightningny 10/02/2008 23:35. Edited 1 time.
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Pressing those nasty nodes!!!

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