Making screws

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Mark Shamburg	Making screws		Lead	[-]
Posts: 177 10/07/2008 00:19	Tags : None For those of you making reels, are you making your own screws? If so I have a few questions. 1. Are you making your screws to some standard, or did you just work out the shape and dimensions that work best for you? 2. What's your process? (Turn, thread and part each piece one at a time or batch process by cutting to length first and doing each step on every part before progressing to the next part, etc.) 3. What are you using to cut the slot? End mill or slitting saw? 4. How are you fixturing for cutting the slot, are you able to slot multiple screws at a time or just one at a time in a collet bock? I would also appreciate hearing any specific tips that have made screw-machining easier for you. I have only made a handful of typical machine style screws and each has seemed way more time consuming than it should... Mark
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timmy		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 132 10/07/2008 04:57	I'm sure you'll get answers from proper reel-makers soon, but I'll tell you my methods anyway. I try to minimise the number of thread sizes, just to avoid the likelihood of me drilling a hole the wrong size, but beyond that, one counter-sunk screw takes much the same time to make as another. So I spec the heads and lengths for the job in hand. I thread as I go. I turn the dia.s, thread with a hand-held die-stock (I must get a holder for my tail stock) and part off. This way I have ready-made work holding for the threading. Slots are cut with a 3" slitting saw using a fixture that is just a 1 1/2" piece of brass rod with a threaded hole in the end. Screw in hole, holder in tool-post, and jam it into the slitting saw with the cross slide. I'm really not the person to be giving you machining tips, but here goes anyway. C/S screws are quickest for me to make. I set the tool so I can cut the threaded part and the shoulder at the same time. When threading with a die you get quite a lot of margin on dimensions. I zero the dial when I have made the last cut on the first screw, put the caliper down, and use the die for quality control. I sometimes part at an angle to get some shape on the head of the screw. doing it this way I guess I make about 8 cuts, and take less than 2 mins a screw. For dome heads, I shape the dome last, after cutting the slot. I use the same fixture, but chucked up (I don't have the collets) the problem with this is that while it is fairly easy on the threads, the interrupted cut around the slot acts like an impact driver, so the screw can bit difficult to get out again. I don't imagine that's much help to you, but I might learn a lot from this thread. Tim www.harrisflyrods.co.uk
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PaducahMichael		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 492 10/07/2008 21:27	I know this isn't really any help, but I can't resist telling you folks how much I admire someone who can make a screw. Anything to do with metal working has always been "magic" of a sort to me. It would never occur to me to even attempt to make something like a screw. or a reel. or a ferrule, for that matter. My hat is off to you truly creative folks. Wish I had that skill! The New Divine Rods
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eotr		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1 10/18/2008 21:54	Mark: I use a lot of 2-56 and 0-80 Fillister Head SS screws. The commercial screw heads are not always as precise as I would like so I start with pan head screws and turn the head OD to suit. This makes a screw that looks like a Fillister Head but is slightly shallower. I use a nominal end mill as a counter bore and turn the head diameter to .005" less than the nominal end mill. I tapped a block to hold 12 screws at a precise depth. Then flipped the block over and used a slitting saw to cut the screws to length. Buff the freshly cut screw ends to remove sharp edges and you have custom screws of any length. Brent Last Edited By: eotr 10/19/2008 02:34. Edited 1 time.
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eotr		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 2 10/19/2008 02:33	For shoulder screws such as pawl screws and handle screws I single-point thread them using the lathe and then slit with a slitting saw and a collet block. Since there are usually only one or two of this type in a reel it is not a big problem. I definitely use commercial screws with some second operation machining for any screws that are used in quantity. Will post some photos of various screw types when I get a chance. Brent
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Mark Shamburg		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 191 10/21/2008 13:58	Thanks Brent, I take it you've made some reels yourself? Any pictures? Mark
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eotr		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 3 10/23/2008 03:38	Mark: Check out the photo albums in my profile. The Salmon reel is a cork drag, brass and bronze with delrin backplate that I built to balance a 8'6" cane rod. The trout large arbor is a 2"arbor VomHofe style. It is my goto reel for large trout on the Bow River. The A/R Spey reel is 4-1/2" cork drag - body is gold plated brass and spool is anodized aluminum. It was designed to balance a 13' cane spey rod but also balances my 9' 14wt cane tarpon rod perfectly. I've used it for tarpon and jack cravelle. Brent Brent
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