I'm getting fuzzies and splinters at the edges of my splits after final planing. I plane, then scrape, then sand, but I'm not getting perfectly clean edges. Any ideas how to clean them up?
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Fuzzies at the edges of final tapered splits
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 Stephen Veefkind |
Fuzzies at the edges of final tapered splits |
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Posts: 27 10/26/2008 21:45 |
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aparramoure |
#1 | |||
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Posts: 1539 10/27/2008 03:40 |
#1.. sharpen your plane. ( they can never be too sharp ) Are the tear outs at the nodes? The other thing is if you still have some cane left to plane, in that
area, plane in the opposite direction. But my guess is the iron needs sharpening.
http://bamboorestorations.org |
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Stephen Veefkind |
#2 | |||
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Posts: 28 10/27/2008 07:47 |
It's actually happening between the nodes.
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dt4wt |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 14 10/27/2008 08:47 |
I have had that happen to me, the cane was to dry, from heat treating, try soaking overnight and try again. good luck Larry
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fishbum |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 204 10/27/2008 10:03 |
Like above, get that plane SHARP. Also, quit sanding. The planed or scraped surface makes a better bond than the sanded surface. The sanded surface will have
the pores of the material clogged with sanding swerf. The planed or scraped surface the pores are mostly open so your adhesive has something to grip.
If you do have a splinter trying to tear off of the corner, you can use a little super glue to stick it in place so it won't progress into the strip far enough to ruin your strip. Hopfully you catch those things early enough that as you plane, you cut away the above mentioned repair. fishbum |
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Joe Arguello |
Scraper | #5 | ||
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Posts: 164 10/27/2008 10:25 |
You need to make sure that your scraper has a burr rolled on it. This allows it to cut rather than tear. You should be able to scrape with very little
pressure, if you need to push down it's too dull. Sharpen by using 180 or 150 grit paper on glass, use a sharpening guide and sharpen in the opposite
direction you do for your plane blades. In other words draw the blade against the paper don't push the blade into the paper you will be able to feel the
burr, DO NOT REMOVE THIS OR FLATTEN THE BACK OF YOUR SCRAPER BLADE! One other thing I do is paint the bevel with a sharpie to see if you are on track,
(sharpening tips given to me by Denver Dave) you then set the depth of the cut by using a piece of paper under the front of the scraper to lift it up just
right. Do this on your clean glass surface.
Hope this helps Joe |
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lazylightningny |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 12 10/28/2008 10:09 |
Joe Arguello wrote:Joe, you hit the nail on the head. I was using a plane blade as a scraper, and it was tearing the fibers instead of cutting them. I completely ruined two strips this way. I was trying to same money by not buying a scraper. Chalk up another lesson learned. I'll just invest in a Lie-Nielson scraper. |
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john channer |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 659 10/28/2008 22:33 |
Steven;
Old plane blades work just fine as scrapers. Sharpen as usual just as sharp as if you were fgoing to plane cane with them, the clamp the blade in a vise with the edge up and the flat side facing away from you then use either a burnisher or an old round shank screwdriver to roll the edge over and make the burr, it works fine and the burr lasts a long time. john |
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thegubster |
Never thought of that one! | #8 | ||
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Posts: 1412 10/29/2008 08:32 |
john channer wrote: John, Thanks! I'd never thought of doing that in my woodshop for woodworking (furniture).. I've read a lot on scrapers some years back and have had the L/N scraper as well as a bunch of those flat, tool steel scrapers. I polished and rolled the edges with hardened dowel pins and just wasn't satisfied. So I gave them up. This might bring me back.... For rodmaking, do you have a little fixture for the plane blades or are they hand-held? I (think) I could come up w/a little tool like a mini block plane body and wedge the blade in if need be (it might be a real test to do that) but I'm curious how you prefer. Thank you! Jeremy.
Last Edited By: thegubster 10/29/2008 08:36.
Edited 1 time.
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Stephen Veefkind |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 31 10/30/2008 01:48 |
Good info. I won't give up on the plane blade scraper yet!
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Joe Arguello |
Scraper blade sharpening turtorial | #10 | ||
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Posts: 168 10/30/2008 07:13 |
OK,
I was just thinking (always gets me in trouble) I'm going to try to get a tutorial written on how to sharpen and set a plane blade on the Lie Neilson Scraper. I have to admit that I bought one and it sat on the shelf for years, one day Denver Dave was over and told me that it was the greatest tool since sliced bread! I said that I didn't like it and all it was good for was scraping off the enamel. So then I asked him to show me how he used it. He showed me how to sharpen the blade and how to set it on the plane. For once in my life I listened and watched with an open mind. (This is a rare occasion) I can't thank Dave enough! So I will try to put something together in the next day or so with some pics. It really works great but it's one of those things where a picture is worth a thousand words. Coming Soon! Joe
Last Edited By: Joe Arguello 10/30/2008 07:19.
Edited 1 time.
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john channer |
#11 | |||
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Posts: 661 10/30/2008 23:14 |
Jeremy;
No, no fixtures, I just hold it in my hand. I do hold it skewed to the form so I'm scraping at angle from the enamel edge towards the center so I don't pull fibers away from what will be the surface, if that makes any sense. To be honest, I try not to have to do any scraping, I think the surface left by a sharp blade in the plane is better than anything scraped or sanded. john |
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