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Here you go - I'll post some photo's over the weekend:
BiBio's - a variety of flymph. The best body materials are blends of dyed Hare's Mask and
cheeks with seals fur mixed in (proportions about 1/3 each). All of these need to be cut
relatively short to achieve the spikey texture necessary, 1/4" to 1/2" long. Cut these
yourself with a pair of scizzors, varying the lnegth of the material, and blend them
in a coffee grinder.

One pf these days, when I get around to it, I will shoot some photo's of these and
post them if there is an interst in this.

For hackle, use Whiting hen. This is a substitute for for immature rooster hackle, but
works pretty well. The hackle is palmered over the entire front third of the hook - e.g.
over the front third of the dubbing. Three turns is plenty, just make sure the underfur
shows through; then, make two extra turns right at the face.

For tying thread, I use YLI #100 silk, but Pearsall's Gossomer will work, too. Make sure
it is well waxed. If you must, you can use Danville's prewaxed 6/0. For hooks, I
would recommend Mustad 3399A for deeper sunk versions and Mustad 94840 for emerger or
shallow sunk versions. My favorite sizes run from #12 to #18, but for some patterns, I have
put recommended sizes becasue I never go without these. Finally, Never weight Bibio's or
apply a rib. Wrap an underbody of the tying silk and dub the bodies loosely so they
are very spikey and rather "loose".

My favorite color blends and patterns are as follows. Most of these use Hare's Mask,
but sometimes I use Artic Fox. If Hare's Mask is called for, the blend is equal amounts
of Hare's Mask, Hare's Mask cheek, and seal fur or Angora Goat. If you use the Artic Fox,
chop the guard hare and underfur up, mix with the seals fur and blend. If you cannot get
or do not like Hare's Mask in the dyed colors called for, the various squirrel blends
work very well. Just make sure you get all natural material...DO NOT use the synthetic
and natural blends. Once you get the idea, you can vary the color mix to suit virtually any
local hatch you will run into.

Natural (NAT) - natural + natural + dun
Black (BLK) - black + black + black
Brown (BRN)- medium brown + ginger + brown
Olive (OLV) - Olive Hare's Mask + Olive Hare's Cheeks + Olive Seal with
a little brown seal and hare's mask mixed in for a rich dark olive
Dun (DUN) - Dyed Grey + White (Bleached) or light dun + Grey
Orange (OR) - dyed hot orange & dyed red + red & orange + flur orange
Red (RED) - dyed red + red + red with slight OR mix mixed in
Primrose (PRIM) - Primrose Artic Fox & seal fur
Watery Dun (WD)- pale Watery Dun Artic Fox and Seal
Yellow (YEL)- bright yellow Artic Fox + bright yellow seal
Tups (TUP) - pink + yellow + red Artic Fox and yellow seal
Lime - lime + grass green Artic Fox + flor. green seal

Favorite Patterns:

Olive #16
Thread: olive
Tail: Reddish Brown Coq deLeon
Body: OLV + OR + OLV
Hackle: Furnace

Black #14
Thread: black
Tail: Darkest brown Coq deLeon
Body: BLK + RED + BLK
Hackle: natural black

Trico: #20-24
Thread: black& white fibers, mixed or grey speckled cCoq deLeon
Tail: black Coq deLeon
Body: white + black + white
Hackle: White

Brown #16, 12
Thread: orange
Tail: Reddish Brown Coq deLeon
Body: BRN + LIME + BRN
Hackle: Furnace

Gray #10, 14
Thread: Light Gray
Tail: Grey Coq deLeon
Body: DUN + Lime + DUN (alt mids are OR & YEL)
Hackle: Dk. Blue Dun

March Brown #12, 16
Thread: Red silk
Tail: Reddish Brown Coq deLeon
Body: NAT + RED + NAT
Hackle: Dk. Furnace

Pale Watery #16-18
Thread: Primrose Yellow
Tail: Palest Watery Dun
Body: WD + PRIM + WD
Hackle: Watery Dun

Tups #16
Thread: bright yellow
Tail: Ginger Coq deLeon
Body: YEL + TUP + YEL
Hackle: Ginger