i am looking for a lathe tool bit for turning ferrules that leaves a nice finish on the nickel silver,any input would be appreciated ,thanks steve
This forum began as Clark's Classic Bamboo Rod Forum, founded by Clark Davis for all who share a passion for classic rods. The forum is now owned by Whitefish Press aka Dr. Todd Larson - banjo.
For those who don't use English as their primary language we now have a translator for your language of choice hosted by Google.
0 Kudo
- Members Corner
- Forum Announcements
- Collecting Bamboo Fly Rods
- Fishing Bamboo Fly Rods
- Rod making, restoration, repairs and discussion on those related topics concerning bamboo rods.
- Rod and Reel Makers Forum
- Information About Makers & Manufacturers
- Taper Exchange
- Appraisals & Identification of Bamboo Fly Rods
- Ephemera, empherma and Ephemerella.....
- Book Talk
- Photos, paintings, written stories and talents.
- Classic Reels
- Collecting and Tying Classic Flies
- The Cooks Kitchen
- The Classic Fly Rod Classifieds
- Technical Support
lathe cutter for turning ferrules
| Author | Comment | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
 stephen kiley |
lathe cutter for turning ferrules |
Lead | ||
|
Posts: 329 02/26/2009 04:27 |
please check out my profile for information and availability on my mosaic and north star rods.
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
aparramoure |
#1 | |||
|
Posts: 1677 02/26/2009 04:36 |
Steel or carbide will do the job..
A good finish has more to do with the RPM and the speed of feed. That is something you'll have to play with to get the right combo.. And it isn't all that precise.. but it will take a little bit of testing to find it. Also, use a lubricant.. oil or WD 40. |
|||
|
|
||||
|
fishbum |
#2 | |||
|
Posts: 256 02/26/2009 08:13 |
Steve
Grind your tool for about 60 degree back clearance, 5 degrees on the tip vertical and the top of the bit or rake around 8 degrees. You need the 60 degree back clearance to allow you to get up close to your center in the tailstock. This will leave a very sharp point on the bit. With a medium diamond hone put a radius of around 1/32 in or less on that sharp point. You need a slight round tip in addition to the right feed and speed. Stay away from carbide if you want a good finish on NS. Carbide pushes too much. There is a wealth of information about machining metal in Machinery Handbook. Hope this helps. I will try to get a picture up of the grind pattern I use. I am sure I have not described the grind I use correctly. It is just going to take a couple days since I have a show to do this weekend. fishbum |
|||
|
|
||||
|
brooke777 |
metal finish | #3 | ||
|
Posts: 52 02/27/2009 09:23 |
Although the bit I use gives me a respectable finish to the naked eye, l have found I need high grit sandpaper and steel wool to obtain the finish I want.
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
stephen kiley |
#4 | |||
|
Posts: 330 02/28/2009 03:13 |
has anyone tryed polycrystalline diamond or ceramic inserts,they look interesting,thanks steve
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
ShenRods |
#5 | |||
|
Posts: 187 02/28/2009 10:11 |
Steve
The question should not just which cutting tool that leaves a good finish - if so - simple answer is HSS on NS cuts best. But you never should fit ferrules straight from the lathe. You are missing the 2nd part to this conundrum - When you have to cut the males on a lathe there will be deflection on the end of the tube - even when supported. That is why with CSE ferrules I tell students to fit the first 3rd then middle 3rd and then final 3rd - the sides are not parallel - there is deflection. So for me it doesn't really matter what is the best tool that leaves the smoothest finish - it is only a rough cut. I then use a Sunnen external hone to take the male down so both sides are now parallel. This is what will give you the best fit. Then you can use your files (Grobet Pilar files 6 and 8 cut) / fine abbraseives to polish out the finish that last few 1/10000ths. So what you see on a final fitted male ferrule should be no tool marks at all. BTW - use of a lap on the inside of the Female also makes for a better fit. In talking to John Pickard, he confirms that Dickerson had both a Sunnen internal honing machine and a Sunnen external hone for making his ferrules - that is why they fit so buttery smooth and don't show tool marks. Chris |
|||
|
|
||||
|
aparramoure |
#6 | |||
|
Posts: 1680 02/28/2009 10:52 |
Sorry Steve, I read your post as you wanting the best finish on the outside of the ferrule... didn't realize you were looking to hone the slide.
I use a reamer for the final cut on the female and I hand lap the male slides.. I have never been able to cut the males to fit the female on the lathe. (no matter how hard I try) |
|||
|
|
||||
|
stephen kiley |
#7 | |||
|
Posts: 331 02/28/2009 12:28 |
thanks for the tip on the lapping i will have to look into one of those,i always leave the male a bit oversize and then fit.just looking for the best bit or
grind for the outside finish to cut down on sanding and polishing,this is for the cosmetic finish on the outside not the male slide.thanks steve
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
aparramoure |
#8 | |||
|
Posts: 1681 02/28/2009 13:36 |
Well then your back to speed, feed, and depth of cut.
The steel cutters are the sharpest.. the carbide last the longest. I can get a mirror finish with either one.. but it is all in the speed,feed, and depth of the cut. If I don't have it right... I have a continuous tool mark the length of the piece I am turning..I get it right.. the metal just peels off in one continuous spiral and the end result is perfect. I guess you just practice on some scrap, then once you have what you want, take some notes of where your at for future use. Another thought Steve.. with your final pass.. are you supporting the ferrule at both ends?? That makes a big difference also.
Last Edited By: aparramoure 02/28/2009 13:38.
Edited 1 time.
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
bluejayee |
#9 | |||
|
Posts: 652 02/28/2009 19:40 |
Hi Guys, I don't know if Dickerson had the Sunnens, but Jim Schaff did. Jay Edwards
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
JimmyB11 |
#10 | |||
|
Posts: 16 03/03/2009 20:02 |
MMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmm,
I am very surprised that no is talking about the different types of carbide cutters. NS or Aluminum are "non ferrous" metals. HSS cutters will work well but a simple braised carbide cutter can be purchased for 5 dollars in various configurations. They can be sharpened with a green wheel on a grinder, the wheel is 15 dollars. A sharp non ferrous braised carbide cutter will give you an excellent result and will last almost forever if used carefully. I have used them and they are great. |
|||
|
|
||||
|
stephen kiley |
#11 | |||
|
Posts: 332 03/04/2009 11:13 |
thanks for the responcess,now its time to start turning again.steve
|
|||
|
|
||||
- Members Corner
- Forum Announcements
- Collecting Bamboo Fly Rods
- Fishing Bamboo Fly Rods
- Rod making, restoration, repairs and discussion on those related topics concerning bamboo rods.
- Rod and Reel Makers Forum
- Information About Makers & Manufacturers
- Taper Exchange
- Appraisals & Identification of Bamboo Fly Rods
- Ephemera, empherma and Ephemerella.....
- Book Talk
- Photos, paintings, written stories and talents.
- Classic Reels
- Collecting and Tying Classic Flies
- The Cooks Kitchen
- The Classic Fly Rod Classifieds
- Technical Support
Quick Reply
The Orvis database by Greg Reynolds Finally available again!!
Check out the Paul Young Rod Co. database which is owned and maintained by member Robert Golder (quashnet).
Paul Young Rod Co. database by quashnet
DISCLAIMER:The views, and opinions, posted here are the sole responsibility of the poster. Negative comments, when directed at individuals, or other private concerns, will not be tolerated, posters should treat this media no differently than any other media source, in other words, if you would not submit what you are going to post in the newspaper, or a magazine, and sign your name as the author, kindly refrain from doing so here. The Classic Fly Rod Forum is not an open air forum for vendor/maker complaints. If you seek resolution, it is recommended you talk to the vendor/maker. If you seek an audience, it is recommended you go elsewhere. The admin and the Moderators reserve the right to remove any items deemed inappropriate according to the rules of conduct prominently displayed on each forum. If you have any questions or concerns you are free to email us at
send email to the Classic Fly Rod Forum
Posting to sell Domain names and the like, i.e. SPAM, is against YUKU Policy, if you post these types of posts here you will be banned from this board and YUKU will more than likely ban you from the site entirely. Thank you..........
The Fly Fishing Loop is sponsored by flydepot.com
[ Home Waters | Next | Random | List | Search ]
