This is what happens when you put an unbalanced rod in the lathe to turn down the grip!
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My first nodeless rod... LOL
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 Stephen Veefkind |
My first nodeless rod... LOL |
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Posts: 55 03/20/2009 14:14 |
This is what happens when you put an unbalanced rod in the lathe to turn down the grip! |
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fishbum |
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Posts: 262 03/20/2009 15:30 |
Yep, works every time.
Next time get the unsupported end supported but I don't think I need to tell you that now. fishbum |
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Tim Anderson |
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Posts: 27 03/20/2009 17:44 |
Ouch! An intermediate support is necessary in most cases, but I have also found that an inexpensive live center opposite the lathe's chuck can be most
useful. Buy a 1" (or so) thin, rubber washer at the hardware store and slip the washer's hole over the point of the live center so that the rubber
will cushion the inside of the center's cup. Snug up your female nickel-silver ferrule end into the rubber-cushioned cup of the live center. Now that end
can't whip around.
Tim
Last Edited By: Tim Anderson 03/20/2009 17:47.
Edited 1 time.
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Stephen Veefkind |
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Posts: 56 03/20/2009 21:51 |
what do you guys use to support the rod when its on the lathe?
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fishbum |
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Posts: 263 03/20/2009 22:24 |
To form a grip I use a live center in the tailstock to support the reelseat end of the rod. The rod passes through the headstock and the ferrule end is
supported by a stand which is nothing more than a board with a hole in it at the same height as the hole through the headstock. A layer of masking tape
protects the ferrule and rod.
fishbum |
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Blue Quill |
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Posts: 37 03/21/2009 00:17 |
Regarding the photo; did you attempt to turn the grip with the reel seat was attached?
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rlnunleycom |
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Posts: 502 03/21/2009 07:28 |
Stephen,
I turn my handles and reel seat fillers on the blank, in a wood lathe. I just support the butt end with a live center via a hole center drilled in the end of the butt and for the ferrule end, that sticks out of the lathe, I have a simple support made of plywood that slides on a slotted wood base. Tried to upload an image for you, but it keeps giving me "Error On Page" messsages, so here's a URL for a picture. http://www.rlnunley.com/woodlathe.jpg Later, Bob |
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Stephen Veefkind |
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Posts: 57 03/21/2009 08:07 |
rlnunleycom wrote:Thanks Bob. Very simple, but highly effective solution. I knew I'd take a ribbing for this posting, but it's a learning experience. I hung the rod on the shop wall as a "gentle reminder" |
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Gnome |
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Posts: 1988 03/21/2009 09:01 King of the Gnomes |
Stephen,
That is not quite at the level of the "First "rod we saw at CRR a few years ago. The maker shall remain nameless but he stepped up and pulled a small vial of charred ashes out and said "This is what happens when you over heat treat your first rod". Hang in there and enjoy the mistakes as well as the successes. You walked away with no blood loss and no maiming so onward through the cloud of splinters er the fog. Jeff |
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Blue Quill |
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Posts: 38 03/21/2009 16:56 |
Hi Stephen,
You can turn a reel seat insert while it is mounted on a blank so long as it is a cylindrical Garrison-style insert. Morticed reel seat inserts are normally routed prior to mounting them (I know many rod makers who use morticed reel seat inserts (as I do) and I've never known any to route a thumbnail mortice into a reel seat insert after it was attached to a blank). Morticed inserts also need to be turned to final diameter prior to thumbnail routing, which means they cannot be turned to final diameter on the blank unless they are to be removed for routing, which is why most makers turn and then route the reel seats on a mandrel prior to mounting on the blank after the grip is finished. Grips are usually turned while on the blank as well, and this will be much less of hassle if you do it prior to mounting the reel seat. And it would obviously be completely impossible to turn and/or mortice a reel seat insert with the grip attached if you are making an uplocking seat. Of course everyone has their own way of doing things. Chuck |
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Gnome |
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Posts: 1993 03/21/2009 18:27 King of the Gnomes |
Chuck,
This was and is common practice at SCOTT as far as mortising the reel seat in cork it was always done after the grip and reel seat where glued onto the blank. Done with a grinding wheel and a tapered sliding bed. Very easy and very efficient. Done many a small fiberglass and graphite rod that way. Jeff |
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bluejayee |
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Posts: 690 03/21/2009 20:46 |
Hi Guys, Been there haven't done that exact thing but lots of others. Nice crash! I use a wood stand with two supports so I can put a 1" PVC
in it on the head stock. I also use a cork spacer kinda like Garrison used. I use a tailstock, a carbide center and the butt is center drilled. I usually
turn and mortice reelseats on a mandrel. Scarf? Heh, heh. Jay Edwards
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 drbaits |
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Posts: 97 03/21/2009 21:41 |
Here are a couple solutions for mid-rod stabilization on the lathe....the first is a real quick-and-dirty...good use for those great roller bearings in old
skateboard wheels:
the rubber wheel acts as a shock absorber as well. A snug fit is made by wrapping the rod with blue painter's tape....just center, then tighten the drill press vice...yes, I know...I give lo-tech a bad name... So, it occurred that with a set of bearings, one could make a set of jigs to fit various rod diameters. I bought several diameter bearings and made a set of these jigs to fit my old Delta lathe. After making the upright with a dado fit and putting in a guide to fit the lathe, i just found the center by sandwiching the jig between the headstock and tailstock live centers. That marked the location to drill the hole for the bearing: 
Still low-tech, but works...and cost about 2 bucks for 3 different size jigs. I hold the jig down on the lathe with small C clamps |
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rlnunleycom |
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Posts: 503 03/21/2009 22:33 |
Blue Quill wrote: Chuck, I use a mortised reel seat... that is all I've ever used. I just don't see the point in mortising them seperately when it can be done on the rod with the cork in place. But I don't use a fingernail mortised seat... If you've ever seen one of my rods, you'll see that they are mortised the same way a Payne reel seat was done, which were also turned and mortised mounted on the blank, with the grip in place. I used a thumbnail mortise for many years, but I never did like the rails left by the thumbnail bit, and using a wider bit still left what I considered to be too much radius at the upper end of the mortise. I like the Payne, Leonard, FEThomas, Kusse, Taylor, Aroner style of mortising the reel seat MUCH better... but of course, that's just a matter of personal taste. Bob |
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Blue Quill |
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Posts: 40 03/21/2009 23:35 |
Hi Jeff,
I've seen cork reel seat inserts made as you describe (on the blank with a grinder) on graphite rods back in the LCI-Loomis days, but we're discussing mortising wood reel seat inserts. I've never seen wood reel seat inserts mortised with a thumbnail bit after they were mounted to a rod blank. Hi Bob, My reel seat inserts are oval cross-section with a .030 land on eithe side of the dome of a shallow thumbnail, no siderails, and they are made with a thumbnail bit. They have a shallow radius at the grip end and are similar to T&T's, Tom Moran's, etc. Also, I'm familiar with the flatter/90-degree-end mortices you describe (Payne, Leonard, etc.), and to your point that type could be made in a vise after the insert was mounted, but any of Mark Aroner's rods that I have seen had shallow thumbnail mortices with a radius towards the grip the same as the ones I use, although I haven't seen any of his rods dated later than a few years ago. Chuck
Last Edited By: Blue Quill 03/21/2009 23:37.
Edited 1 time.
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Stephen Veefkind |
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Posts: 58 03/22/2009 07:32 |
Thanks for the advice, all. I already have 4 of the 6 new strips ready for gluing.
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