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 gofish60 |
#21 | |||
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Posts: 1842 10/28/2008 12:19 Registered User |
Although I think a genuine silk line is indeed a real pleasure to fish, there isn't enough difference, IMHO, between real silk and either Cortland Peach or
Sylk to make it worthwhile to me to do all the rtequired maintaince. Just my $.02
gofish |
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 joaniebo |
#22 | |||
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Posts: 1647 10/28/2008 18:40 |
Ed
"Although I think a genuine silk line is indeed a real pleasure ...." the posting is about fly lines ... not what you keep looking at in the Victoria's Secret catalog ! With Much (dis) Respect BH Boobie |
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gofish60 |
#23 | |||
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Posts: 1845 10/28/2008 20:30 Registered User |
Nice to hear from Boobie.
I actually give him old silk lines to keep him busy. Otherwise we'd all be up to our asses in his "fly" creations. Gonna be a long winter. gofish |
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WatercolorMan |
#24 | |||
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Posts: 1087 10/30/2008 01:17 |
Anssi
What method do you use to strip the old silk line ? Alan |
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Lockfast |
#25 | |||
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Posts: 26 10/30/2008 10:25 |
Alan,
I just soaked it in warm water with baking soda. It took two baths (about 20 minutes each) with a gentle wiping in between to get the old coating off. Some coating still tends to stick inside the braid - don't know how one can get that out. Dr. Schott's pictures show a couple of lines which have been totally cleaned. I'd really like to know how he has accomplished that kind of results. Anssi |
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PennsCreek |
Silk Lines | #26 | ||
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Posts: 57 10/30/2008 10:38 |
Has anyone tried "Tru Oil" to dress a silk line?
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eastprong |
#27 | |||
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Posts: 372 10/30/2008 10:42 |
Tru Oil behaves very much like varnish -- it will form a stiff film. I think it would be OK to substitute for the varnish in your oil/varnish mixture, but I
wouldn't use it alone.
--Rich |
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bdcanefly |
#28 | |||
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Posts: 833 10/30/2008 10:50 |
Lockfast,
If you soak it in rubbing alcohole it will remove all the old varnish and does not hurt the line. Also, about using alcohole rather then water method is it dries very fast. I have bought a old line and had it stripped and ready to fish in 3 weeks. It can be done, I still use some lines I re-varnished 10+ years ago.
BDC
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bdcanefly |
#29 | |||
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Posts: 834 10/30/2008 10:51 |
gofish,
I agree to some extent. I love the sylk lines and can see only small amount of diiference when fishing them both.
BDC
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Lockfast |
#30 | |||
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Posts: 27 10/30/2008 14:53 |
Thanks for the tip. Must give it a try. Anssi |
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sharps4590 |
#31 | |||
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Posts: 37 10/30/2008 18:24 |
I'd just like to be able to FIND some old silk lines to restore!
Vic |
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krautcaster |
restoration advice | #32 | ||
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Posts: 121 10/31/2008 02:45 |
Anssi, Nathan, PM´s sent... Best wishes, Andy
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overmywaders |
#33 | |||
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Posts: 40 10/31/2008 12:58 |
Anssi,
I would really dissuade you from using "raw" linseed oil. Raw linseed has non-drying "foots" which severely retard the drying of the finish. See from The Handbook of Industrial Oil Engineering below: 
In conservation we would sometimes make "sun thickened Linseed Oil" - originally called "stand oil" which is now prepared differently. Raw linseed oil was left in a large glass container in sunlight for six months or more and then small amounts would be siphoned off for use. Never would we use raw linseed oil on historic furniture, it didn't dry properly and would not have been used on quality pieces by the original craftsmen. |
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bdcanefly |
#34 | |||
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Posts: 835 10/31/2008 16:33 |
Great advice Reed.
Sharps.. Just look on ebay for old reels, many have line on them. Also do not forget swap meets and yard sales. I have found dozens of old lines.
BDC
Last Edited By: bdcanefly 11/05/2008 15:31.
Edited 1 time.
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WatercolorMan |
#35 | |||
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Posts: 1093 10/31/2008 16:48 |
Tru-oil is a Polymerized linseed and Polymerized tung oil combined. It cures very fast unless thinned. It cures hard and glossy. Develops cracks in the film if
applied to thick. I've use it on a few rods I built and it worked fine but I have no clue how it would perform on a line.
I guess if it dosen't work out you could strip and redo your line. |
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PennsCreek |
Tru Oil | #36 | ||
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Posts: 58 11/01/2008 10:37 |
Thanks Watercolorman and Eastprong your knowledge and advice regarding tru oil---- The line I have to restore is a Dt-6 in great condition condition. I have
stripped the old and will replace the new using Reed's formula. It's seem that Reed has forgotten more than I will ever know about this process.
Thanks Reed!
Last Edited By: PennsCreek 11/01/2008 10:46.
Edited 1 time.
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krautcaster |
sun "bleached" linseed oil | #37 | ||
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Posts: 122 11/02/2008 04:25 |
The linseed oil that Dr. Schott recommended to me is actually labelled "sun bleached" and pretty fast drying. It was a vast improvement over the
stuff I used before. It is a Swedish product called "Linolja" that is distributed in Germany by a local company that is specialized in such
materials. It might well be available in the USA also. Andy
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findwolfhard |
Oil | #38 | ||
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Posts: 327 04/03/2009 10:56 |
http://www.dick.biz/dick/product/705275/detail.jsf
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oldfishbrain |
Ultralight Silk | #39 | ||
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Posts: 1316 04/04/2009 09:58 |
In an attempt to produce an ultralight silk line I treated an old silk casting line. The line came from an old Sears-Roebuck & Co. spool labeled
"Black Beauty" Best No 1 Japan silk casting line, Special Process Waterproofed, 24 lbs test. Since it did not have an obvious coating, I did not
bother to strip it. 30ft weighed 3.2 grams which should give me a line of less than 1wt.
I gave it three coats of boiled linseed oil by pulling it through a cloth saturated with the oil. I let it dry between coats (in a dryer cabinet kept at 30 deg. Celsius) and let the third coat dry for 4 days before greasing it with Red Mucilin. 30ft of the finished line now weighed 3.6 grams. I think I have produced a level 0wt silk. Although I have not fished with it and have only lawn cast it for a short time it seems to behave.
Maker of light line nodeless bamboo fly rods
avardanis@sympatico.ca
Last Edited By: oldfishbrain 04/17/2009 12:40.
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Yawning Owl |
Refinishing Silk | #40 | ||
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Posts: 8 04/04/2009 11:40 |
kruatcaster,
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