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Zenkoanhead |
#41 | |||
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I needed a supple 000 weight line for a micro Forbes so I treated nylon backing with Tru-oil. Not saturated, rubbed on between thumb and forefinger. Added very
little stiffness. Afterwards coated with Mucilin. Worked fine. I would imagine Alex's experiment would yield similar results. Don
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trouting |
#42 | |||
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I have inherited an old tacky silk line from a great uncle which I am looking forward to restoring so will be following up on some of the above thoughts.
I've been fishing Phoenix silk lines in 4 and 5wt and love them - they land very quietly on the water, shoot well (which is important even for very short
casts when one is adjusting the length of cast), and they smell & feel great! I have a question about the Theabault lines - I bought 2 of these NIB from a
forum member but haven't used them yet because they were tacky, even though they still had the ribbons on them and appeared unused. Is this usual for the
Thebault lines (or does it mean damge from poor storage)? I have been wondering whether I should try to refinish them, or go strait to the breaking in process.
Any advice? (Also, what is one actually accomplishing in the breaking in process - I am a bit confused by the advice to cast the same length of line repeatedly
to break in the line, it seems like that would be the opposite of what one should do). Thanks for any advice, Lawrence
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Yawning Owl |
No Tacky Theabault | #43 | ||
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My Tebalult line was NOT tacky when it was new - still isnt. |
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trouting |
thanks! | #44 | ||
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Thank you for the advice LEO, and your detailed posts in the other thread. For the Thebault line specifically, do you know whether, after removing whatever is
on it with baking soda and water, I should first re-finish it with an oil/varnish mixture, and then apply the Thebault dressing, or go straight to conditioning
it with the Thebault dressing (without puTting oil/varnish on it)?
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trouting |
#45 | |||
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Thanks for the clarification! Lawrence
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baetisrodhani |
My tacky Thebault solution...? | #46 | ||
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Hello to all,
I got, a year back or so, on a quite well known auction site, a #8 DT salmon Thebault line, unused & "NIB", but tacky from box confinement. I of course thought of refinishing it thoroughly, but had the idea of trying a less painstaking solution first, just in case... So I first rubbed it down with a soft cloth dipped in a solution of artist's copal varnish (derived from a Renaissance recipe and still used by tradition-oriented painters), to which I added a good swill of lead based siccative, used also by the above-mentioned artists (CAUTION: IT'S A POTENT POISON !!! USE ONLY IN FULLY VENTILATED ROOM AND WEAR PLASTIC GLOVES !!!) . A week later, the finish still feeling soft, although less tacky, I decided to continue with talcum powder... It seemed to work ! I had to repeat this five minute procedure five times, before having a perfectly supple and usable line, that flows through the guides with incredilble ease ! I know this is totally empirical guess work that may not even be fit for treating all silk line finishes... But it enabled me to get a Thebault back on a reel with very little sweat... A great season of tight lines to all ! Giles |
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trouting |
#47 | |||
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Interesting Baetisrodhani. My sticky Thebault lines are a DT8 and WF8 salmon lines. Could you give me a source and/or proprietary name for the lead siccative
you used? I found a company that sells what they call copal varnish. Thanks Lawrence
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trouting |
#48 | |||
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Another question for all: I have what was sold to me as a Marve Hedge silk line that I think has the kind of enamel finish that has been mentioned above. I
could strip this and put a varnish/oil finish on it, but it hasn't been fished so I am thinking of leaving the enamel finish on it and trying it out as is.
With these enameled silk lines, was mucillin used, or is one supposed to fish them without any line dressing? Thanks, Lawrence
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trouting |
re-finishing just a tip? | #49 | ||
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Thank you for your advice LEO. I think I won't fish the Marvin Hedge after all. With all this discussion of silk lines I have been looking at mine more
closely. I have noticed that my Phoenix lines that get a lot of use are a bit rougher in the last 12 ft or so (at the tip) - not terribly, but it made me
wonder whether at a certain point one can/needs to strip and re-finish JUST the tip of the line. Has anyone tried that? OR does it create an bad hinge?
Lawrence
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baetisrodhani |
#50 | |||
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Hi again Lawrence,
The siccative I used, a clear water-like liquid, is made by Talens and sold under the name of "Courtrai siccative", at least in Europe... But I gather a good artists' supply store in your neighborhood will provide you with a suitable equivalent, if that one is not available. As for refinishing line tips only, I've also done it and had positive results. It only takes a good rub down with alcohol to eliminate floatants & dirt before insistingly wiping up & down with the copal varnish - boiled linseed oil mixture, to which a few drops of the above-mentioned siccative have been added. One coating was enough for my lines... Best of luck, Giles |
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