
Cheers,
John
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Special Dry Fly |
What type of blade is on this beveler? |
Lead | ||
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Hi Gents: I'm thinking of making a roughing beveler and I like the look of this one (I believe it's Hal Bacon's.) What type of blade is this and
where does one obtain it?
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Cheers, John |
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canerodscom |
#1 | |||
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John,
Those blades are 60 degree milling cutters available from any supplier of machine shop tools. |
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john channer |
#2 | |||
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That is a 60 degree side milling cutter , actually it's two of them ganged up side by side, the strips go thru between them enamel side down and it cuts
both sides at once. You can really hog off some bamboo with these things, but keep them sharp or you'll also do a lot of edge damage. I got mine from
MSC(www.mscdirect.com), I think the domestic made cutters, made by Moon Cutter Co, are about ten times better than the imported cutters. Be sure to point the
end of the strips, if you shove a square end at those cutters turning at about 5 grand you'll wind up pulverizing the end of the strip.
john |
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bluejayee |
#3 | |||
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Hi Guys, Careful of the adapter on a rig like that. Think about a 1" shaft and pillow block bearings. Jay Edwards
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AJ Bamboo |
#4 | |||
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i am going to reiterate what John said about the cutters. I do not know about Moon, i used Niagara, another US made cutter. although mucho more expensive than
chinese cutters use US made stuff. the difference is more than tool life. the chicom crap does not work and blows up strips all the time while the US cutters
last and work smoothly
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PA Limestoner |
#5 | |||
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You can obtain these cutters with a surface treatment that maintains edge sharpness a lot longer. It is titanium nitride and it looks like gold anodizing. If
you soak your strips, the edge sharpness lasts longer. Prior to milling, use a belt or disc sander to make a nice gradual tapered point on one end of the
strips. Don't taper the enamel side, only the pith side. This will allow the strip to gradually enter into the cutters and not chew up a lot of cane. Make
multiple passes through the cutters, moving the fence closer with each pass. You can re-wet the strips between each pass.
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fishbum |
#6 | |||
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As a matter of good engineering practice you should move those cutters as close to the motor frame bearing as possible. Reducing overhang to a minimum will go
a long ways in reducing vibration. A better approach than shown in the picture is to use a large nut to hold the cutters on the shavt instead of a bolt and
washer in the end of the shaft.
fishbum |
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john channer |
#7 | |||
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To add to what Jay said, I made mine with pillow block bearings and a belt driven shaft. I think it makes alignment to the direction of travel and squareness
to the bed a lot easier than trying to mount a motor perfectly. I also bought a square cutter and use it to dress the top of the patterns in the machine
itself, that way the enamel side is parallel to the shaft and the geometry turns out right.
john |
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rlnunleycom |
#8 | |||
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These are actually called "Double Angle Milling Cutters" and are available for anywhere from $45 each to a couple of
hundred dollars each depending on whether you want High Speed Steel, TiN Coated, Cobalt or Carbide. For a roughing beveler, High Speed Steel is fine. You can
get these from MSC, Travers, or about machine tool supply house. If you don't have the MSC "Big Book", then you need one. It's like a 3500
or so, page Men's Victoria's Secret.
Years ago I had a Bellinger Rougher that had an adpater just like that mounted directly to the motor. It worked great for me, I sold it and it worked great for the guy I sold it to and a few years ago, that guy sold it and to my knowledge, it's still a good servicable machine. BUT... if I were to build another roughing beveller using double angle milling cutters, I'd definitely do as John Channer and have a shaft made and mount it on either pillow block bearings or in a precision spindle housing. Bob
Last Edited By: rlnunleycom 05/13/2009 23:53.
Edited 1 time.
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Special Dry Fly |
beveler photos? | #9 | ||
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Hey John, if you're willing to take the time to post some photos of your set up, I might not be the only one who would love to see them...
John |
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Jeff Fultz |
#10 | |||
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Here are a few pics of my beveller that uses the same cutters.
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scott bearden |
#11 | |||
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Take note of how thick the Plexiglass or Lexan is on Jeff's cover. A.J. Thramer wrote a long time ago about one of the teeth of those cutters coming off
and planting itself in the wall. So if you make one, make the safety shield as strong as you can. Lexan is the most impact resistant, but thick Plexiglass will
do well also.
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john channer |
#12 | |||
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It's not high speed steel cutters that can loose a tooth, it's carbide. The carbide tooth is welded to the body of the cutter, high speed steel cutters
are one piece, no tooth to loose.
john |
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