I`ve only built a few rods and I seem to have a problem with the nodes coming back up after heat treating. some are ok but a few need to be repressed before
final planing. Is this common or am I not doing something right the first time I press the nodes?
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reappearing nodes
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 Lewis B |
reappearing nodes |
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Posts: 12 05/28/2009 16:28 |
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ShenRods |
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Posts: 213 05/28/2009 18:13 |
Hard to tell from your description exactly what you are doing. But if you do it right - they should not "pop out". First and foremost - do not compress nodes - that is an invitation to disaster. First, relieve the area behind the node - just don't flatten the are. You need a place for the node to go. Several of the books have it wrong. You should be displacing the nodes - then they will not "pop" back. Another trick is to warm you vice / press you are using prior to "pressing". Chris |
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zenflyfisher |
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Posts: 27 05/28/2009 23:35 |
Sand your nodes and you will not have this problem
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Lewis B |
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Posts: 13 05/29/2009 08:20 |
Zen, I often heard that sanding nodes cuts into the power fibers, Has this been a problem for you? It sure would speed things up. Lewis
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ShenRods |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 214 05/29/2009 08:51 |
A number of production houses never pressed nodes - they just power sanded them - Winston still sands only. However - you need good culms and have to discard culms that are too bad to sand. Now that brings back to amateurs who try to get a rod out of every culm. Then you have to learn how to play with nodes unless you decide to cut the little buggers out  . Even with sanding you can not always able to sand them flat. You also have to deal with the opposite problem - those depressions before a node
- they are tricker - since you need to have a flat strip for your form. So you are still back learning how to move the cane to make it flat. Sanding is not a
cure all.
Chris |
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Lewis B |
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Posts: 14 05/29/2009 09:27 |
Thanks Chris, I have LOTS of tomatoe stakes to practice with. I`ll try the relief technic and the sanding. Im sure I`ll find something that works for
me
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bluejayee |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 770 05/29/2009 15:01 |
Hi Guys, I changed my system after reading Bob Nunley's piece on this subject. It involves displacing the node. I like it a lot. You still have plenty
of straightening to do but....... I'm preparing strips for a mill so they need to be pretty damn good. Look up his system. It works! Jay Edwards
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canerodscom |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 2142 05/29/2009 16:00 Bamboo preacher |
Lewis,
Here's a video of a demonstration I gave at one of the rod makers gatherings a few years ago. Perhaps it will be helpful: Working with nodes HB |
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Lewis B |
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Posts: 16 05/29/2009 18:58 |
Thanks Harry , Great video. Only thing I can see that I might be doing wrong is Im not putting enough " UMPH" on my vice,which brings up another
question. Can I over tighten the vice? With in reason. and thanks again. Lewis
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canerodscom |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 2143 05/29/2009 19:15 Bamboo preacher |
Lewis,
Sure you can over-tighten the vise, if it's a big enough, powerful enough vise. With a small vise it isn't likely that you will unintentionally over-tighten. I squeeze until the enamel side is just flattened against one jaw. You can see it if you watch. Harry |
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zenflyfisher |
#10 | |||
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Posts: 28 05/30/2009 17:59 |
Lewis
I use 120 grit on my belt sander and I'm very careful not to comprmise the power fibers. I also sand ff the enamel and pith side nodes. And then I strignten the kinks and doglegs with heat. I use a Bellinger rough beveller and it works best with stright, flat, square strips. I used to compress my nodes. I'd depress the pith side node with a dremel, heat and squash in a vice. I think sanding is better and dosen't put more heat in the node area and a time saver. You would be surprised how many builders sand their nodes. Just my opinion. |
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Lewis B |
#11 | |||
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Posts: 18 05/30/2009 21:27 |
thanks Zen, Im always open to new Ideas.Although I dont have a beveler I`ll give it a try
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