Taper boo boo (sad story)

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Lewis B	Taper boo boo (sad story)		Lead	[-]
Posts: 22 06/02/2009 11:25	Tags : None I started a 7ft 2wt. I found a taper on another site and off I whent. Flamed ,split and taper. Tiptop is .062 . butt end is .188 and I hit the numbers pretty close. Heres the kicker, I didnt notice that the taper only gave dementions for 75 inches. after I cut the tip section to the proper lenth I discoved the butt section would have a differant ferrule size. I could cut the butt section to the flow of the taper and have a rod 9 inches shorter or go with what I got. If anyone can follow what I`m writing, What would you do??
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Lewis B		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 24 06/02/2009 14:46	thats were I make the mistake. I adjust my form for the butt section from the last measurement ( fattest) to the smallest and I do mt tip the opposit (smallest to biggest) this way I always get an overlapping taper at what will be the ferrule locations. The taper gave measurements from Point 0 to point 75 (75 inches) if the taper gave me point80 &point 85 Iwould have been ok or if I would have continued on after the point 75 I would have been ok. what in ended up with is a tip for a 2 weight and a butt for a one weight or maybe lighter. I build my own ferrules so all I can do is make a set to fit and see what happens. Thanks for the reply I know its confusing Lewis
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Tom Smithwick	Fixing the boo boo	#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 503 06/02/2009 16:02	Lewis - I would definitely not build it as is. You will end up with a nasty hinge at the tip end of the butt when casting. A 6 foot, 3 inch two weight is not a bad thing, and you can claim the offset ferrule as an experiment. If you can find or make a reel seat with a wooden insert that can be snugly fitted to the stub end of the butt, you can get back another 3 inches. If you are determined to have the whole 7 feet, you can plane out a short replacement section and splice it onto the existing section. The splice will end in front of the handgrasp, but you can hide it with decorative wraps. Another evil trick would be to find an aluminum arrow shaft of the correct ID to fit onto the section like a ferrule. It will be stiffer than the cane, and give you the effect of a swelled butt. I make it a point to put the tip and butt dimensions side by side on a piece of paper and hang it over my bench as I'm finish planing. It's mostly to help me when checking dimensions, but also gives me a visual check that everything matches up.
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tapermaker		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 770 06/02/2009 16:12	you could make the rod with a seperate grip/ reelseat and just put a ferrule on the end of the butt section to fit into one in the handle.
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TXTrout		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 258 06/02/2009 16:17	Lewis, I would ensure that use use the correct measuements over the ferrules, or as Tom said, you will have a nasty casting rod. I would use a aluminum tubing of the correct ID or a piece from a graphite rod to fit onto the butt section like a ferrule and extend the butt section about 6" or so and trim the tip down to make a 6'9" rod. This will all be hidden under the grip and reel seat. Robert. "Some paths are best not taken alone" John W. Barfield
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Lewis B		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 25 06/03/2009 07:44	First and foremost, I want to thank everyone for thier help. Here is what I have decided to do. Im stopping right were I am and build a new butt section from the cane I`ll have left over from my next build I started this build with a left over piece on cane , I have recieved more cane since I started this thread. may be some day I can find a taper for a 1 wt and will be able to use the butt section that I have. my only lose was time but I learned ALOT!
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john channer		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 766 06/03/2009 08:22	Lewis; When I first started out I found any tapers that weren't in Hexrod form to be confusing, so I started converting the ones I was interested in that weren't given in even 5" increments from the tip down into that form, it was easier to understand and also to compare different tapers. I also developed the habit of setting my forms from the small end to the large end andI set them all the way to the end of theform. This lets me start my planing with the strip in the largest end and move it forward as I take it down, it holds the strips better and helps me keep my angles correct better. I've looked at enough tapers in different formats now where I can see what's there without having to convert to tip to butt form, but it's become second nature to me to set my forms and plane that way, I don't even think about it any more. john
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bluejayee		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 771 06/03/2009 11:57	Hi Guys, I leave my notebook open, I mark the dimension on the form with a 'Sharpie' at each 5", I mark each spline's dimension at each 5". I do sometimes have to scarf a piece onto a butt section if it will 'hide' under the grip/reelseat. Making another section is what to do. You'll find a use for the 'boo boo.' I, personally, have to be very deliberate about all that sort of thing as my 'visuallizing ' skills are marginal at best. Jay Edwards
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pvansch1		#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 4645 06/03/2009 12:34 Moderator	Finish it, make yourself some fancy chopsticks and build another section. Pete
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flyman.flyfishingarkan...		#9	[url]	[-]
Posts: 16 06/03/2009 12:36	bluejayee wrote: Hi Guys, I leave my notebook open, I mark the dimension on the form with a 'Sharpie' at each 5", I mark each spline's dimension at each 5". I do sometimes have to scarf a piece onto a butt section if it will 'hide' under the grip/reelseat. Making another section is what to do. You'll find a use for the 'boo boo.' I, personally, have to be very deliberate about all that sort of thing as my 'visuallizing ' skills are marginal at best. Jay Edwards That, and carry it on to the cutting for length. I always lay out the blanks with the ferrules, handle, reel seat and tip before I cut, then do it again. Maybe its the anal R&D background, but I have a log book that everything gets written in every day. If you don't keep track of your screw-ups and their fixes, you will keep doing them until you do. Larry Lohkamp
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Taper boo boo (sad story)

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