My local hardware store just started carrying MOW semi- gloss and satin finishes in addition to Gloss, which I have always used--any experience with these? I
like the idea of a satin finish, but am wondering what happens when you polish it out-does it turn shiney?-Any thoughts, help appreciated
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Another Varnish Question
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 greyreefer |
Another Varnish Question |
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Posts: 143 06/19/2009 13:11
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eastprong |
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Posts: 455 06/19/2009 13:45 |
Semi-gloss and satin finishes have tiny particles, usually silica, added to the varnish that "flatten" the light being refracted from the finish.
They won't polish up any shinier or glossier with compounds because of this. If you're going to polish anyway, why not use gloss then stop after coarse
compounding for satin or medium compounding for semi-gloss? The silica doesn't do anything for the strength of the varnish film.
--Rich |
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greyreefer |
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Posts: 144 06/19/2009 14:22
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Seems like a satin finish would be easier in terms of not having to "dull-down "the finish under the guides?
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flyman.flyfishingarkan... |
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Posts: 22 06/19/2009 14:28 |
It seems to me that I remember getting matte varnishes to polish up some, but I'm too lazy to go out and experiment... and it'll probably hit 100 in
the shop today, far to hot to be varnishing. The solids that cause the surface to scatter some of the light can settle, producing inconsistent sheen. That
could be a problem in a dip tube setup. Better to start with gloss and tone down the sheen with compound.
Larry |
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Zenkoanhead |
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Posts: 1443 06/22/2009 18:47 |
You can take a Sand Turtle Gleemer and knock the gloss off in a couple of minutes, then bring it back to taste with the white buffer side. I like Arm-R-Seal in
satin for the reasons stated. I hit that with the Gleemer too. Don
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eastprong |
#5 | |||
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Posts: 457 06/22/2009 19:05 |
Don:
That Sand Turtle Gleemer is an amazing thing. I bought a bunch a while back on your suggestion. I've been using it on shaft blemishes (gloss varnish). What I've found is that the green (coarser) side is not sufficient to remove most blemishes, so I back off to a 4-grit stick from International violin, either 2400 or 4000, then both sides of the Gleemer. The white side brings back the gloss better than any other sanding or polishing paper I've ever tried, including MicroMesh. The gloss is restored the same as if I've worked through several compunds, without the mess. A great trick! --Rich |
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AJ Bamboo |
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Posts: 828 06/23/2009 03:22 |
only use gloss varnish. as mentioned the mica used to 'dull' the varnish, 1) has to be mixed before use, and 2) will make the varnish film less able to
repel moisture. the old guys used gloss and dulled if desired with rottenstone and oil, pumice and oil. water can be used in place of oil but the finish will
be of a duller finish than oil. i have always used linseed oil.
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Zenkoanhead |
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Posts: 1444 06/23/2009 16:52 |
Rich. I do need to get the 2400 & 4000 as the green side of the Gleemer is a bit fine for some defects. Do you have a source for that product? Don
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oddsnrods |
Satin poly. finish | #8 | ||
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Posts: 218 06/23/2009 18:25 |
I brush on two coats of gloss then two more of satin poly. varnish. Dust with 2000 grit paper between coats. Satin 'levels' great, and once it hardens
(as opposed to just drying) it is tough enough for me . Never been a fan of all that polishing between glossy coats , even lost my interest in dipping in spar
long ago. I make and use all sorts of non fly rods (as well as fly rods) which get some hard use. Satin can take the 'thumbnail on the corners' test
with flying colours, again when hardened over time. Satin looks good to my eye (when coupled with high gloss thread varnish) also I am sure the fish approve.
This is a baitcasting rod.
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eastprong |
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Posts: 459 06/24/2009 16:51 |
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