Greetings All, I am in the process of sketching out plans for a new dip tube. so, for all you grizzled veterans out there, what design features do you like (or
dislike) about your current setup? What would you do different? What components do you think are an absolute must? Also, if you have any pictures of your
current contraption you wanted to share, please do. I have a couple of design ideas I am toying around with, but would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks, Jay
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Made a new dip tube lately?
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 jayhake |
Made a new dip tube lately? |
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Posts: 233 06/20/2009 15:13 |
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Battenkiller |
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Posts: 18 06/20/2009 18:01 |
Several years ago when I first got interested it this I came up with the idea of filling the tube with varnish, inserting the rods and draining the varnish
from the bottom back into its original can. This would prevent outside air from contacting the varnished surface (you'd need some sort of filter at the
top to capture dust from the incoming air) and make it so you only needed a tube slightly taller than the longest rod section you plan on making (I don't
have a tall stairwell like Garrison had).
Fast forward several years and I'm all enthused about rod making again. I told a rod building buddy about my idea and he says it's already been done, but I can't find any references to it. My problem was trying to find some sort of metering valve or pump so that the varnish would be withdrawn at an even rate. Has anyone made such a tube or can you supply references to one that has been made? If so, I'd really appreciate it. It seems like a really great way to dip varnish. |
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jayhake |
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Posts: 234 06/20/2009 18:06 |
Battenkiller,
If you check out Todd Talsma's site you will see several examples of what you are talking about. They are referred to as drip tubes, or drain tubes. Most people just use a screw valve at the bottom to adjust the rate of the draining. From what I understand, it works pretty well. Here is the URL: http://www.bamboorodmaking.com/html/dip_drip_tubes.html Cheers, Jay |
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tapermaker |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 776 06/20/2009 18:22 |
my only concern about the idea of draining the tube would be that there would be no way to stop the section at each guide to clean out the corners of the
guide feet and allow some time for the varnish to drain away fully before starting up agian.I would think it would require removing the dried varnish that
accumulates before final dipping.
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stephen kiley |
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Posts: 344 06/20/2009 19:29 |
here is my set up,steve
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bluejayee |
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Posts: 793 06/20/2009 22:35 |
Hi Guys, Check out the Garrison book for a way to put a cap on your tube. Use a neoprene seal and NEVER look at skimmed over varnish. Jay Edwards
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Wet |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 1 06/21/2009 09:47 |
Stephen, what are the motors pictured, they look great where did you get them? Regards, Andrew Connell
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Battenkiller |
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Posts: 19 06/21/2009 12:44 |
jayhake wrote:Ha, ha! So I guess I'm not the first to have that idea. Thanks, Jay. Tapermaker, you make a good point. Hadn't thought about that. Does the varnish drip/rod removal rate eliminate the problem if it is slow enough? Garrison did 4"/minute IIRC. Would 1"/minute work better? Slightly thinner viscosity? I always thin varnish slightly when I brush it on (boats, not rods). |
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stephen kiley |
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Posts: 345 06/21/2009 12:46 |
connell,the motors are 1 rpm stepper motors,i got them at a dicount house about ten years ago,dont remember which one.the spindel with the cord on it is the
dowel use in a closet to hang clothes on,gives me the right draw rate.thanks steve
please check out my profile for information and availability on my mosaic and north star rods.
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OldCanerods |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 71 06/21/2009 16:19 |
About 7-8 years ago I made a diptube with drain. I thought that way I'd keep the rod sections from getting dust on them by draining the varnish back into the can. Never again. Too many problems with valve plugging up or sticking, tube often needing cleaning and no real benefit. Plus varnish got crap in it. JW sells plug set if you want to make a traditional tube with a top seal. |
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- Members Corner
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