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 aparramoure |
KNOTLESS BELT (CORD) FOR BINDER |
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Posts: 1251 03/12/2008 15:35 |
Any help here would be appreciated..
I am told you can not buy them, and I need to get one, make one, have someone else make one,, something. TIA |
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satbuilder |
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Posts: 16 03/12/2008 17:00 |
I recall reading an article by Chris Bogart some years ago about knotless belts for binders. Edit: the article is called "Unlocking the mysteries of the
Garrison Binder"
Last Edited By: satbuilder 03/12/2008 17:03.
Edited 1 time.
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ShenRods |
#2 | |||
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Posts: 106 03/12/2008 18:21 |
I last did that topic as a presentation for Corbett Lake in 2004 - It is the one article that I have gotten the most positive feedback and that people have found the most useful to solve their binder problems over the years. Here is a link to that presentation. http://www.canerod.com/gatherings/Corbett/Pictures2004/Unlocking%20the%20Mysteries%20of%20the%20Garrison%20Binder.pdf The cord you want is Braided Mason Twine (not twisted as a lot of stores have). Then it is a simple use a needle to feed one end into another like a Chinese handcuff or snake eating itself. Use some thread to secure it. Dispose of it after use. Chris |
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SnooKen |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 510 03/12/2008 18:48 |
FWIW if you can't find the braided masons' cord most any 50# or heavier test braided nylon or Dacron fishing line is woven in the same hollow-center
format and should work well. A single nail knot over the outer layer's end should secure it all.
Ken |
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highnode |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 19 03/12/2008 19:14 |
I used to make mine following the diagrams in "The Wise Fisherman's Encylopedia".
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vinsense |
#5 | |||
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Posts: 152 03/16/2008 17:31 |
There is an EXCELLENT set of instructions in Issue #16 (August 1992) of 'The Planing Form' for making a Knotless Drive Belt by Gerry Arbeider of
Vancouver, B.C. with his phone # 604 321-2853. Really, really GOOD!
Vince B. |
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marcusw |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 19 03/17/2008 13:28 |
I may be a little late - but I have found a utilty cord that is flat ( at Lee Valley in Canada but surely available elsewhere). By overlapping two ends about
half and inch and stiching through them I find I have a drive belt that is flexible at the join, does not jam on the wrapping twine and bites on the drive
wheel very effectively. I have gone nuts trying to thread masons line into itself and find the flat cord better on all counts.
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SnooKen |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 521 03/17/2008 17:28 |
Here's an easy trick for threading hollowcore lines. Using a length of light gauge single strand wire(ie. leader wire, piano wire, guitar string)) make a
jumbo "bobbin threader" by folding the wire back on itself at midpoint then lashing the two ends together or gluing them into the end of a short
dowel for a handle. Slip the "threader" through the weave of the cord about 6-8" from one end and route it up the hollow center to the cord end.
Feed the tag end of the cord into the threader then pull the threader back down and out of the cord. Remove the threader from the tag end and slowly ease the
exposed tag end back into the cord. Nail knot or whip the outside end of the cord and you're set. Same technique has a load of other applications including
splicing fly lines, creating strong braided loops for line to leader/backing connections, attaching shooting heads to running lines etc.
Ken |
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fishbum |
#8 | |||
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Posts: 134 03/18/2008 16:16 |
Here are some pictures how I make endless belts. members.aol.com/canerodfw/knotless/knot1.jpg members.aol.com/canerodfw/knotless/knot3.jpg
members.aol.com/canerodfw/knotless/knot4.jpg members.aol.com/canerodfw/knotless/knot5.jpg members.aol.com/canerodfw/knotless/knot6.jpg
members.aol.com/canerodfw/knotless/knot7.jpg members.aol.com/canerodfw/knotless/knot8.jpg members.aol.com/canerodfw/knotless/knot9.jpg
members.aol.com/canerodfw/knotless/knot10.jpg Hope this is of some help. fishbum
Last Edited By: fishbum 03/18/2008 21:21.
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BigTJ |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 440 03/18/2008 21:55 |
I use 50 lb Cortland braided nylon. I do what's called a blind splice and secure it with superglue. If you're unwilling to trust the super glue, use a
nail knot with 4lb. maxima ultragreen to secure it. The braided nylon works especially well, it has a "gripping" property from its surface area that
really seems to spin the sections without twisting them.
Good luck, -John PS I reuse my cords over and over, just dump them in a bucket of water. I use resourcinol it's really water soluble. With epoxy I think you might be one and done, although white vinegar might wash off enough glue I don't know. |
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canerodscom |
#10 | |||
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Posts: 1638 03/18/2008 22:03 Bamboo preacher |
The less persnickety among us just tie a square knot in the cord. If we're really trying hard to be sophisticated, we'll touch the knot with a drop of
superglue. Yeah, it bumps each time it goes over the rod section. But that's not a problem.
Harry
Harry Boyd
maker@canerods.com http://www.canerods.com |
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aparramoure |
#11 | |||
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Posts: 1260 03/19/2008 05:47 |
Well, I am taking it all in,, and thanks to each of you for your help and direction,,, I have even purchased the book! Now I need to get some cord.
Last Edited By: aparramoure 03/19/2008 12:39.
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oldfishbrain |
#12 | |||
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Posts: 1038 03/19/2008 08:05 |
BigTJ wrote: I use epoxy and have used the same cord for 9 rods (binding only one section at a time). Just dunk it in vinegar when you have finished, let it sit overnight, rinse it with water and let it dry.
Maker of light line nodeless bamboo fly rods
avardanis@sympatico.ca |
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byrdog |
#13 | |||
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Posts: 496 03/19/2008 08:36 |
I run my binder using Degere's method of a continous belt. I wind thirty pound backing on an old Cortland click and pawl reel vice gripped to the bench and
run that through the pulleys to the winding handle. After gluing up just disgard the used backing. For binding strips to be heat treated you can use the
backing several times just wind it back on the reel after use. FWIW, Tim
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wbinn |
#14 | |||
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Posts: 63 03/19/2008 09:27 |
Diggers method inspired me to use something different than a spliced drive belt. Like Digger I use Kevlar cord as a drive belt and a two stage pulley system to
hold the Kevlar. I wind as much cord as I can get on one side of the pulley and fasten it to the other side of the pulley after passing it around the cord
guides. In use the cord unwinds on one side and winds up on the other side. Usually I can get 12-15 sections bound before changing the cord. Much simpler than
it may sound. No splicing, no knots to go bumpity, just a smooth process.
Winston |
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bluejayee |
#15 | |||
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Posts: 417 03/29/2008 12:04 |
Hi Guys, What byrdog said.... I put a sewing machine thread tensioner on my binder so that I can control the tension. I shouldn't say this but I looked at
a picture of a Wagner binder and did that to both of mine. I'll NEVER go back to endless belts, pulleys, weights falling breaking dropping to despair and
disrepute and, oh I want my mommy. Buy a Wagner. Jay Edwards
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aparramoure |
#16 | |||
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Posts: 1267 03/29/2008 13:28 |
Well, I have a Herter's,,, and I found some "O" rings that were large enough to do the job and thin enough to go between the pins.. they work so
well that I went back to the old hardware store and bought all that they had... $1.79 each,,,, probably a lifetime supply for me.
Thanks again to all who helped with this. |
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