Anyone know where I can get one? I have seen them offered inconjuction with a gauge but not as a stand alone item - and I really do not need another gauge.
Not surprisingly I am having trouble with consistency without one.
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Depth gauge standard
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 marcusw |
Depth gauge standard |
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Posts: 30 04/18/2008 09:58 |
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ShenRods |
#1 | |||
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Posts: 116 04/18/2008 10:41 |
Don't need to go buy one - you got one already and don't know it.
Use your dial indicator as your standard (after all you are only as good as your measuring tools) - set it to .100" lock it and then put the point of your depth gage on the jaws with the point in the slot (I assume you are using a Starrett 60 degree point) and it should read .0866 - if not set it to that. See my EZ-Cal article for details. Every so-called "standard/calibration block" I have seen has been off. Chris |
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Special Dry Fly |
EZ-Cal article | #2 | ||
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Posts: 31 04/18/2008 11:23 |
Hey Chris: I'd like to read your article. Where do I find it? Thanks and Cheers, John
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ShenRods |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 117 04/18/2008 12:37 |
I have it on my website under rodmaking classes and then rodmaking tools page. http://www.shentel.net/canerod/HTML/ClassIndex.html then click on rodmaking tools and it is on the top of the page. They are PDF files. My earlier calibration article is there also. But after developing the EZ-Cal method it is all you need. Some of the guys use .116 on the dial indicator to get .100" on the depth gauge - same principle - the simple trig math is the same. Chris |
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canerodscom |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 1682 04/18/2008 16:43 Bamboo preacher |
Marcusw,
Should you still want a depth gauge standard, I have several for sale that are exactly .100". If you'd like one, get in touch with me at the address below. Price is $45, plus shipping. I like the method Chris describes in his article too, but it's kinda fiddly trying to get the depth gauge to sit squarely on a dial or digital indicator. Harry
Harry Boyd
maker@canerods.com http://www.canerods.com |
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BOB NUNN |
Depth Guage Standard | #5 | ||
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Posts: 7 04/18/2008 17:55 |
Tony Spezio has addressed this in the past. He sets the dig. indicator at1155 and then the guage zeros out at
--- zero |
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Photojoe4 |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 10 04/19/2008 11:51 |
You could also just use a test strip. Set your planing form to the dimensions of your taper and plane out a strip. Measure the strip at each of the stations,
and compare these measurements to your taper sheet. Use your depth gauge to adjust each station for the difference in the two measurements, and plane out
another strip. Measure this strip- it should be at your target dimensions.
Regards, Joe Martin |
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fishbum |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 141 04/19/2008 20:38 |
You can use two ground pins clamped together on a flat surface as a setting gage. 1/4" to 3/8" will work. Use the following formula to find depth for
a 60 degree point.
D = (r - rTAN30) / TAN30 Where D = depth and r = radius of the pins. Accuracy of this setting gage is dependant on the flatness of the surface plate used, roundness of pins, accuracy of the dimension of the pins, and temperature at the time of measurment. It also depends on the accuracy of your 60 degree point to a greater degree. This is much more accurate than any "standard" you might get any place else. In fact, it is much more accurate than any measurment we ever need to make to make a cane rod. For simplicity sake, use the method Chris mentioned. That too is more accurate than what is necessary for the task at hand. Keep it simple and enjoy the rod making, fishbum
Last Edited By: fishbum 04/19/2008 20:47.
Edited 1 time.
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FlyDoctor |
Depth gage | #8 | ||
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Posts: 502 04/20/2008 15:17 |
I've tried all these methods and as Harry indicated they all are a pain in the butt to try to get consistent results. I was fortunate in having Ron Larsen
send me a depth gage standard and it is great--dead on accurate and repeatable. Give a couple of these methods a try to see if you can get repeatable results
and then do yourself a favor and buy a standard--Larry
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Prowanab |
Question about the depth gage | #9 | ||
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Posts: 142 04/20/2008 17:40 |
Here comes one of those dumb questions that you get from a newb. When I get my forms something this week, will I just be able to use the depth gage and set my
forms or will I have to set it before I try to use it? I thought if it read 0 when you put the gage into the grove you just open the form to the size needed.
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HexaMaineiac |
setting depth gauge | #10 | ||
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Posts: 486 04/20/2008 18:39 |
Your depth gauge should not read zero at any point in the groove. It should be zero on a completely flat surface. However, if you use a flat surface to
calibrate your depth gauge you will (quickly?) dull the point and it will no longer be accurate. That's why you need one of the above methods to calibrate
the depth gauge- then when in the groove it will read an accurate depth. The fun is just beginning, Henry.
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john channer |
depth guage standard | #11 | ||
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Posts: 564 04/20/2008 23:15 |
Marcus;
You don't need one, set it to "O" on the top of your forms and go to work. Oh, you'll hear a lot about dulling the tip, but I doubt it. Decent tips are harder steel than your forms are, I knwo the Starrett tip I bought 13 years ago is much harder than my forms and judging by the scratch the point still puts in my finger nail, isn't much duller than it was when I bought it. Even if you could dull the tip, the worst that will happen is your strips will come out slightly oversize, which you sill find out when you measure them, you are planning to measure your strips as you plane them, aren't you? If you get a discrepancy between the form setting and what the strips measure, just readjust the form a bit until they match. For instance, I use a grooved plane, set the blade so it just clears the form and set the stations .002 under and the strips come out just right if i don't screw them up with bad planing. In the end, they will will be no more accurate than what you use to measure them with and how handle that measuring tool, so going thru a major ordeal just to set the forms doesn't make much sense to me. john |
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oysterbamboo |
#12 | |||
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Posts: 170 04/21/2008 17:01 |
I typically have about a half dozen depth gauges in use at all times (for the classes I teach). I keep them all properly calibrated using the .1155 method.
Although they are all in excellent condition, I find that when testing them against the "sit on the side of the form" method, they vary in accuracy
from .003"-.009". It really isn't difficult to get a proper calibration. Just set your calipers to .1155, lock the jaws,rest the depth gauge in
the crack, set the dial to "0" (or .100", but basically 0). It takes maybe 60 seconds and you only have to do it once (not every time you use
the tool). Not a big deal at all, and no guessing and compensating if the point should suffer a ding or normal wear.
Bill O. www.oysterbamboo.com |
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oysterbamboo |
#13 | |||
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Posts: 171 04/21/2008 21:19 |
...a quick point of clarification. I re-read my own post and want to make sure that I didn't give the impression that you can't get accurate strips
from the side of the form calibration. Of course when you measure and adjust you can compensate and many folks know there own equipment so well they can get
away with all kinds of ambiguities and still get great results. My advice is simply based on the fact that you are having difficulty with inconsistensies so
you might as well sort things out rather than add more unknowns to the equation.
Bill O. www.oysterbamboo.com |
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Prowanab |
Thanks for the information | #14 | ||
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Posts: 143 04/22/2008 17:14 |
I just got my Lie-Nelson planes and a caliper. So once I get the forms and depth gage I will try that method. Again thanks for the responces....Mike
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marcusw |
#15 | |||
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Posts: 31 04/24/2008 16:01 |
Thanks everyone - I used Chris and Bill's method ( I had tried others including the two rods on a flat surface, and the rod in the groove of the planing
form, and always got variations) using both .100 and .1155 and not surprisingly both confirmed my gauge was off by .004 - the amount I had been subtracting
from the book tapers when setting the form to get to the average of my planed strips. I had set my gauge using a flat metal surface ........ which simply
shows you can't use that method reliably.
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- Members Corner
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