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 mer |
#21 | |||
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Posts: 3015 05/22/2008 07:26 |
Bob enjoy the fishing.
Did the rubber hammer bounce off the anvil, smack you in your forehead and cause you to smack the anvil with your forehead? If so, then technically you ruined the anvil with your head. 
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fishketcha |
Epon | #22 | ||
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Posts: 3 05/22/2008 08:57 |
There wasn't much said about Epon here. Am I missing something? I havn't seen any failures using Epon so far but I am new to this. I have had failures
with TBIII but I was applying it in the wrong fashion. George Barnes has made several rods with Epon with no failures. I'm wondering why more people
aren't using it.
Wayne |
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greendrake ll |
#23 | |||
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Posts: 669 05/22/2008 09:23 |
Wayne, I have used Epon for all of my rods except 2.Epon was recommended to me by Harry Boyd who has always been pretty vocal about how much he likes it.I also
factured in the fact that the source I buy my Epon from(Bingham Archery) uses it to glue the laminated limbs of their compound bows.The limbs on a compund bow
under go a lot more stress and torque than a fly rod,so along with Harrys' recommendation that was good enough for me............Will
Last Edited By: greendrake ll 05/22/2008 09:25.
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bluejayee |
#24 | |||
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Posts: 459 05/22/2008 17:12 |
Hi Guys, New glue! Urac 185 needs to be new glue. I have had delamination twice using old glue. I use Urac on light cane and Resourcinol on flamed cane and
Titebond on some repairs. Jay Edwards
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oddsnrods |
#25 | |||
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Posts: 44 05/22/2008 21:45 |
Urac 185 must be kept in a fridge . I use a dedicated mini beer fridge for mine, having used the glue till the pot was empty without any problems at all, after
more than a year. You can tell when the glue is 'stale' as crystals appear. Famed Canadian rod-maker- the late Ted Knott extolled the virtues of cold
Urac - till the last drop. ...
I have made some heavy duty rods (muskie, spin, bait-cast,carp) given some punishment from the odd bruiser fish, any weakness in the glue would have shown up - none has so far after 10 years of making them. Malcolm www.mhcbamboorods.com
Last Edited By: oddsnrods 05/22/2008 22:06.
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dorenac |
West System epoxy | #26 | ||
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Posts: 13 05/25/2008 08:43 |
Just to throw in one more epoxy ! I have built 21 rods so far, 15 using Epon, 2 using Dap resin glue, and 4 with West System. Never had a problem with Epon
and two problems with the Dap. More recently I've converted over to the West for several reasons: the ease and accuracy of their pump dispensing system,
the advice of a joiner from Switzerland who uses it quite often, the options available to change viscosity, and so far there have been not failures. Oh,
almost forgot, the high quality of the epoxy itself. Heat straightening has not been an issue so far, as long as done carefully and patiently.
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driftless |
Epon | #27 | ||
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Posts: 52 05/25/2008 09:19 |
I, too, use Epon. It is readily available, mixes well, applies easily and has a long open time. It also strips quickly from the blank after glue-up & can
be easily heat-set.
And did I mention the long open time? Glue-up is not a time to hurry around, racing a quickly setting glue. |
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Pentalux |
#28 | |||
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Posts: 27 05/25/2008 17:38 |
Basically would echo MVBROOKS comments but do want to specifically add that ANYONE WHO USES GORILLA GLUE SHOULD BE VERY MUCH AWARE OF THE HIGHLY CAUSTIC DUST
THAT IT PRODUCES WHEN SANDED - most glues are generally bad but that stuff is potentially fatal - make sure your blanks are well scraped before you sand -
don't want to get any of that stuff airborne. Personally would recommend a quality respirator if you use it - I used it on a few rods and liked the result
but personally had a hard time "handling it" as it set up too quickly for me and if you forget to moisten the strips first it generally doesn't
work too well as it NEEDS moisture to work.
Also would say that for a first rod still think Elmers EXTERIOR Wood glue is tough to beat - just don't put your rods in the dishwasher ;^)> Seriously though from the tests I've run on it it actually gets hard as opposed to the Titebonds - I have tested both the II and III and have noted several samples to NEVER fully harden??? Have built several rods with it and simply put I will not use it anymore. The Elmer's works pretty well and is certainly easy to find and is probably the least caustic of any of them- not as stiff as Urac or Resorsinol but it works. Used it for four or five rods with no issues. Believe that is what Ed Marinaro used. Furthermore todays aircraft and firearms industries are producing some tremendous alternative glues as well - Personally now working with a chemically setting formula that can be cut to the point of no longer factoring for glue in taper but would not necessarily recommend it for a first rod. It doesn't really allow you to reset the section either as it has memory and will return to its original cured state within 24 to 48 hrs depending on conditions.... Also for those interested - still getting failures under certain sheer test extremes but does pass my favorite - hammer test - very well as the section will crush with the bamboo separating across the flats not along the glue lines... Best of luck with it. Let us know how it turns out. My vote - Elmers Exterior Wood Glue for FIRST rod. |
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thousandstar |
Wood Glue Review | #29 | ||
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Posts: 19 05/27/2008 14:14 |
I've read somewhere about a woodworking magazine that conducted a review and test of different wood glues. Can anyone provide me with a link to that
article, or information on where I might find it.
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johnr |
#30 | |||
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Posts: 96 05/27/2008 14:49 |
Fine wodworking did that test
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Materials/MaterialsPDF.aspx?id=28897 you will need to register on their site to view the article |
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David Bolin |
#31 | |||
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Posts: 38 05/27/2008 20:26 |
Horsesho mentioned the glue used in the Winston shop. Here's a comment by Tom Smithwick from a Tightbond II thread last year.
Tom Smithwick wrote:
I would like to know more about the catalyzed industrial PVA if anyone is familiar with the product. David |
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eastprong |
#32 | |||
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Posts: 323 05/28/2008 10:57 |
Take a look here:
http://www.franklinadhesives.com/IntroPageFA.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProductIntroFA.asp and look under "Laminating Glues" at the Multibond 2000 and 2020. Maybe those are it? Note the quantities you have to buy!!! --Rich |
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Light Cahill |
My first glue-up | #33 | ||
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Posts: 13 05/30/2008 22:01 |
After reading this post very closely I have no idea which would be the best, but Im going to do my first attempt with Tight Bond III Saturday or Sunday. I
looked for the Elmers Exterior but they did not have it. I seen Elmers Interior but not Exterior. So Im making progress slowly. I like the non-toxic, soap and
water clean up.
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Ironblue |
Polyurethane Glue | #34 | ||
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Posts: 24 06/01/2008 18:07 |
Hi,
I have to agree with Mike. I just glued up my tenth rod with Elmer's Ultimate. The last one, a Payne 200L was done with the new formulation which kicks a bit faster than the original. You can clean up by wiping down the blank with mineral spirits or alcohol. You can scrape off the glue in 12 hours. Don't overdo the water. If you have humidity over 50% you can use the water in the air as long as the strips are not fresh out of the oven. Maximum stiffness develops after 1 week. -Doug |
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David Bolin |
Set Resistance | #35 | ||
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Posts: 39 06/01/2008 22:01 |
I've completed a set resistance test with Resourcinol, URAC, EPON, Titebond hide glue and Titebond III. URAC is the clear winner under normal fishing
conditions. All of the glues will take a set if abused. I'm going to keep using TBIII until a non-toxic creep resistant glue is on the market. I'd
switch to URAC in a heartbeat if it was non-toxic.
Details of the testing procedures are posted on the blog if anyone's interested. They're not lab quality, but should be directionally correct. David www.searcysowbug.blogspot.com |
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rlnunleycom |
#36 | |||
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Posts: 242 06/02/2008 16:08 |
David Bolin wrote:Awwww, C'mon David, it's not that bad!!! So what if I drool a little, stutter more than I used to... the hair on my arms is gone and I can't get in the sun too much... my lungs are shot, but hell, I smoked for 35 years... then there's the little vision thing, but usually that and the nausea clear up a couple of hours after glue up! Some say that it causes and inability to... uh... Oh, yeah... Concentrate!!! but I haven't seen that. Other than those minor things, I don't see any issues with toxicity!!! Seriously, The URAC fumes made me a little queasy for a few hours after I used it, but the area in the shop I use to glue in now has 20 foot high ceilings and I don't have an issue with the fumes anymore. (It does keep nesting birds out of the shop, though) A good pair of latex gloves and go, although, it's hard to find latex gloves to fit my hands... those "Universal Fit" gloves... well, I don't know what universe they were fitting hands in, but it wasn't the one where MY paws were developed! (You guys didn't take the "seriously" part seriously, did you?) All joking aside, URAC is a Urea Formaldehyde glue. I love it for rodmaking, but if you use it, as is the case with MANY industrial strength adhesives and epoxies, you had best take the suggested precautions seriously. (That time I was serious). Bob
Last Edited By: rlnunleycom 06/02/2008 16:12.
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oneculm |
#37 | |||
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Posts: 433 06/02/2008 16:33 |
"If the gloves don't fit you must quit"!!!!!
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David Bolin |
#38 | |||
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Posts: 40 06/02/2008 21:18 |
Bob,
I've got all the same symptoms...from using a cell phone. Maybe URAC wouldn't be so bad after all... David |
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oddsnrods |
#39 | |||
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Posts: 56 06/06/2008 07:56 |
For Urac 185 use a quality respirator and gloves to stay safe, and sand the blank outside if possible. Toxicity from chemicals can build in our systems over
time then sensitivity and symptoms tend to manifest themselves. Not only glues need to be used with care - exposure to varnish fumes and sanding dust can be
problematic over time. For example, long term use of solvents can make one prone to leukaemia, oil painters (artists) are particularly susceptible to this. My
wife has given safety lectures on using artist materials in colleges discussing sensible long term use of glues and solvents, and what can happen if
precautions are not taken.
I hazard a guess however, that you may get more exposure to urea formaldehyde (gas) painting a room with latex paint than making a rod using what amounts to half a Dixie cup of Urac. |
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BigTJ |
#40 | |||
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Posts: 451 06/08/2008 12:31 |
I glued up my first rod with Resourcinol and I loved it. I think it helps to glue in colder weather for more open time then cure in a hot box. Just glue one
section at a time if you are worried about open time. My hot box is 96 degrees, 24 hours was all it seemed to need..
This glue is tougher than nails. It dries fast and you never have to worry about delam. The purple glue lines are there, but I could care less about them. As far as toxicity, I used a respirator and vaccumed up the sanding dust. I don't think it's too bad. Wear nitrile gloves so you don't absorb the stuff through your skin. Be ready to change gloves often during the gluing process the get gummy. Cleanup is a cinch with water. Use a digital scale to get your glue proportions right. You can thin it a bit with denatured alcohol I do it seems to work well. Good luck. |
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