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 seabass14 |
Replacing agate out of a stripping guide? |
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Posts: 146 06/02/2008 15:19 |
I have a rod that was built with an agate stripping guide and the agate has cracked and fallen out. What's left is a super sharp peice of metal that will
eat up my fly line. Is it possible to replace the agate in a stripping guide or do I have to replace the whole guide? Any ideas where I can get replacement
agate if that can be done?
Thanks, Seabass |
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scott bearden |
#1 | |||
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Posts: 25 06/03/2008 09:15 |
It will cost the same no matter what. GW sells them in kits in red, white or black for about the same that you can buy a fancy guide from Snake Brand. Either
re-wrap the guide, or you could un-solder the old and new rings and solder the new one in place. The heat may blacken the nickel silver so you will have to
buff it out with some metal polish. If you have a Dremel with a felt pad buffing tip, a soldering iron and are careful, you can swap the rings out and make it
look as if nothing ever happened. Just don't ding anything with the Dremel.
Scott |
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greendrake ll |
#2 | |||
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Posts: 702 06/03/2008 09:42 |
And in addition to what Scott said,you will have to generate considerable heat.Silver solder is used here and it takes considerably more heat to liquify than
the standard solder that is liquified with a little electric soldering gun.
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seabass14 |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 147 06/03/2008 12:48 |
Thanks for the information guys. I think I might just have the guide replaced.
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scott bearden |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 26 06/05/2008 10:35 |
Perhaps I was remiss in leaving out that you would need to use heat sinks for soldering that you can buy from radio shack. That is assuming you can get the
clips onto the guide feet without it touching anything else. I agree with Greendrake though that unless preserving those wraps were paramount, that a simple
replace and re-wrap would be best.
Scott |
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Longdaleflyfisher |
Replacing agate | #5 | ||
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Posts: 20 06/05/2008 13:54 |
Scott,
Can you expand on the heat sink equip from radio shack. I have a need to do this also. Silver solder and torch produces a of heat. I have a number of agate rings to use but would like to approach this job with the right equip and not destroy to many agates rings. Regards, Longdaleflyfisher, |
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2 Bead Pupa |
agate stripper | #6 | ||
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Posts: 244 06/05/2008 22:31 |
Longdaleflyfisher ... although I havn't yet done this , I recently read that what you want to do is make a steel mandrel of the same size as your agate
ring to solder on . Hope this helps , Russ
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ayres654 |
Replacing an agate | #7 | ||
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Posts: 63 06/06/2008 00:20 |
Hi,
Is it possible to (depending on the type of metal ring/beezle) to open one side,insert the replacement agate and re close the ring? A good jewelery repair person could do this.Much like setting a stone in a mounting.  no heat
involved.
Bill H |
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scott bearden |
#8 | |||
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Posts: 27 06/06/2008 16:14 |
My last two posts didn't make it through for some reason. After thinking about it long and hard I came up with a few issues. First is the flux is corrosive
and to get it off you would need to flush the area with alcohol after you are done. Too much might ruin the varnish, too little and the flux would be corrosive
to the varnish and the metal.
The other issue that Will (Greendrake) brought up is the higher heat needed. Now you can buy higher temp soldering irons for just a few bucks more, but you need the heat sinks and its an awful fuss unless you deem its worth it. Soldering heat sinks are basically clamps made of aluminum that draw the heat away from sensitive parts like pins on computer chips (which are very heat sensitive). A modification I would make is use a high temp metal bonding, heat dissipating epoxy filled with aluminum and copper dust. Bond the clamps to computer chip heat sinks and clamp them just under the solder joints. The other problem is if the heat is too much then it may soften the varnish and burn the silk. The scary thing is if the wraps are nylon, it might melt them. What I suggest is if you want to preserve the frame because its a different vintage then take it off, do the deed and re-wrap. Soldering it on the rod may very well work, but I would test it out on an old junk rod butt first. In the end I think if you can match the thread wraps it is probably best to do that instead and solder off the rod. Scott |
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groovem |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 26 06/07/2008 01:35 |
Another option is this web site: http://www.muggyweld.com/index2.html
He has a material called Cold Blue Paste that is better than a heat sink. He also has a low temperature Silver Solder. He has a video on his web site where he repairs a line guide on the rod! (graphite) No affiliation with the company. I have tried some of the products and they work as advertised. Ed |
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tiptop |
#10 | |||
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Posts: 275 06/07/2008 07:40 |
I can't imagine trying to do this procedure with the guide on the rod. Jeweler's silver solder which is 65% - 75% silver has a very high melting point
-- 1300-1400 degrees F if I remember right. Low temp. silver solder (like you might get at a hardware store) has a very low silver content and melts at a much
lower temp. (and is not as strong). Maybe it's possible to do with heat sinks and the low temp. solder but are you willing to take the chance? One of the
problems with heat sinks is that they suck up the heat out of the area you need to solder and can necessitate the use of a torch or iron capable of delivering
a lot of heat in order to get the solder to flow. If you need to do it yourself, maybe now is the time to learn how to remove the guide and then rewrap it when
you're done with the repair. :^)
Last Edited By: tiptop 06/07/2008 08:56.
Edited 1 time.
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