http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C81yxdFCv7I
| Author | Comment | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
ellensdad |
Casting Critique |
Lead | ||
|
I have, against my better judgement, posted a quick video of my casting. The first minute or so is a closeup view. The second minute is a much wider view that
better shows the reason I posted the video, the hideous tailing loop on every backcast. Not only does the loop tail but it cork screws. A little haul seems to
help at times but I would like to try and solve this without a haul. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C81yxdFCv7I |
||||
|
|
||||
Marshall8 |
try.... | #1 | ||
|
If you noticed when you kind of took a break in your casting as you picked up the line, each time there was no tailing loop. You could easily be putting too
much power into your back cast initially. Its a smooth application of power starting least going faster and faster to your stop.
Stand sideways to your cast so you can get a look at your back cast. The line should be in a 180 degree straight plane and for general practice I like to go higher in the back and lower in the front although it is good to learn how do go low back to high front through all the possibilities. Your back cast is currently a little too long at the rear. I usually stop shorter then in longer casting drift the rod tip back to where you are stopping to get a longer forward stroke. Look at your rod tip in the video and instead of it going in a straight line, it makes a wide arc. To make it straight you will need to raise and lower your hand a little more. Try to lock the wrist while learning these new moves. You can unlock it later for long distance casting when needed. Hope this helps and I'm sure others will add to this or say the same thing in a different way that will be easier to understand. Marshall |
||||
|
|
||||
asullivangarner |
#2 | |||
|
Actually, not a bad thing to do, I have tried but the video thing but it was not nearly as clear.
The backcast is the issue that comes to mind first, and I imagine as the back cast gets better, the forward cast will excel, even thought it looks quite fine from here. I learned to increase my distance, not the goal, but the result, by working solely on the back-cast everyday for nearly a month. Layout 30-40 ft in front of you, enough to load the rod, back up until the line is straight and back-cast, turn around, back-up straighten the line and do it again; no hauling, just lock the line under the pointer of your casting hand. At some point, if you let the line go, you will shoot line on the back cast. Based on the tailing loop on the back cast, this is where I would start... My weakness in the forward cast. Between the two of us, I bet we could cast a mile .
I soccer coach told me long ago, practise makes permanent, watch your technique or find somebody that can. This is a greast post, lots will get said and somebody will say something that makes you say, "Man, now I got it!" Good Luck, Andrew
|
||||
|
|
||||
ellensdad |
#3 | |||
Marshall8 wrote: Marshall, thanks. I am going to try to get my elbow off of my waist a bit. I think that will free me up a bit to be less "wristy". |
||||
|
|
||||
ellensdad |
#4 | |||
|
No dice, very frustrating.
|
||||
|
|
||||
flyh20 |
#5 | |||
|
There are few issues. Sometimes you're not waiting long enough on back cast, this usually happens when someone is watching (video taping) you, but
that's not a big deal and would not result in tailing loop. You most likely have perfect timing on most days.
Your wrist is also bending back on some back cast, you can tell by looking at it frame by frame. Also on normal cast, your hand should move in an arc. Back and forward cast should travel in a same plane. Some of your back cast moves in an concave, almost elliptical plane. This will create tailing loop. If all fails, you can alway try belgium cast where your rod tip is moving in different plane all the time, so never a tailing loop. Having said all this, I might be totally wrong.
Last Edited By: flyh20 06/21/2008 17:50.
Edited 1 time.
|
||||
|
|
||||
SnooKen |
#6 | |||
|
Less wrist, more elbow and see if you can use your upper arm to move your elbow along a short horizontal plane. Doing that will also keep your casting hand
from traveling in as much of an arc. When picking up line off the ground(water) for an initial backcast you're starting with the rod tip high which creates
a slack curve between the rod tip and the fly. Try lowering the rod tip and stripping the line tight before making the pick up. By doing that you'll get a
lot more speed out of the pickup backcast resulting in better "aft loading" for the following forward cast. I've always wished I had a video
camera so I could practice then self-critique then repractice and review.
Ken A Curmudgeon is just an Old Fart with outlet malfunction. You'd be grumpy, too. |
||||
|
|
||||
canerodscom |
#7 | |||
|
Did you notice that each time you pick the line off the grass the back cast does not tail? Those are your longest strokes. Increase the stroke length on the
back cast by drifting after the stop.
To prevent the forward cast from tailing, simply try stopping a little lower -- say 10:30 instead of 11:00. All that is a long way of saying your stroke length is too short for the amount of line you are trying to cast. Should help, Harry
Harry Boyd
maker@canerods.com http://www.canerods.com |
||||
|
|
||||
ellensdad |
#8 | |||
canerodscom wrote: Thanks to all for your thoughtful advice. Harry, BRILLIANT! Lengthening my backcast with forward drift has had a dramatic effect. Now, as long as I stay smooth, massive improvement! Thank you! |
||||
|
|
||||