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oldfishbrain |
#21 | |||
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I started using HexaMaineiac"s method (above) early this spring and like it a lot. My previous method was needle knotting a short piece of red
amnesia to the fly line and then loop-to-loop to a thread leader. The new method does not hinge and results in a connection of the same diameter that glides
through the guides and tiptop. I am converting all my lines to the new method. BTW I used an acupuncture needle instead of a guitar string.
Maker of light line nodeless bamboo fly rods
avardanis@sympatico.ca |
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thegubster |
Thanks Mac! | #22 | ||
mac7x wrote: Thank you Mac, I appreciate this. I quite wanted to share this link because I found it perfect for my same question a week ago! I don't know how you did it but it's pretty cool! Jeremy. |
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mer |
#23 | |||
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Took a look at the link yesterday, then perused a knot book at home, looks like it a variation of the Huffnagle knot. Probably would work fine with mono butts
too (add a few more turns on either side, maybe 5 total on the mono) But the method used to strip the coating is worth the price of registering
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greendrake ll |
#24 | |||
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I use to use the no-knot eyelet.They were barbed metal about 1/2" to 3/4" long with a ring on one end.You just pushed it into the end of your fly
line.They worked great and I never had one pull out.Then Dave Whitlock did an article in Fly Fisherman mag using a stiff piece of mono that was super glued
into the end of the fly line and coated with pliobond.I tried that,liked it and have been using this method ever since.I've never had a failure on one of
these attachments either although I must admit that I was leery at first.
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thegubster |
#25 | |||
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Mike, I tried that method and didn't find it worked well for me. It looks good but I needed 3 hands. Acetone did it.
"If" you do try it, use a 3 turn knot or maybe even a 2 turn. The knot is smaller as a result. I used a 4 turn and it's ...ok...but a 3 is better. Jeremy. |
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mac7x |
Au contraire, Jeremy, | #26 | ||
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Thank you. Great knot, and timely, too. I had just replaced a line, and decided to try a furled leader. I've had it for some time, but haven't used it
because I don't like loops. But I wanted to try it, so I attached it, using the ugly Orvis Chinese finger puzzle loop. Then I saw your post and the knot.
Couldn't chop the loop off fast enough.
Used your link, but deleted everything after the .uk. That got me to the home page without going through their forum. From there it was easy. |
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john channer |
#27 | |||
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tried loops and didn't like them, so it's needle/nail/tube knots for me now. I tie my own leaders, so the butt usually stays on for several years
before I trash the whole thing and start over.
john |
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steeldog94 |
Eagle Claw Leader Link | #28 | ||
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I tried the Eagle Claw Leader Link. Its great, both the line and leader knots are concealed by the link. No hangup whatsoever through the guides
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Flyman615 |
Eagle Claw Leader Link | #29 | ||
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Told you so!
Flyman
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steeldog94 |
#30 | |||
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Empty Creel |
Nail knot | #31 | ||
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I talked with Bruce Richards of 3M a few years ago. He sugested trying to match the leader butt diameter and stiffness to the line and use a nail knot. This will give the line and leader consistant power through the cast. A loop to loop might create a hinge effect when casting. Push in eyelets??? I don't want to risk not taking a picture of my big fish of the year and loose my lucky fly when one of these pulls out.
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steeldog94 |
Problem with Leader Link | #32 | ||
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I was out fishing today and found the problem with the "leader link" I needed to switch to a lead head to strip some streamers and couldn't. Back to the drawing board. I am going to try one of the loop methods. |
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Flyman615 |
#33 | |||
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Very simple solution...tie up a few short "loops" out of heavy mono and keep them in your vest. Then, when needed, a loop can be quickly knotted
through the Leader Link and used to install your lead head. When you're done going deep, the loop can be clipped off the Link, re-used and you're back
to fishing your regular set-up.
BTW, I recently installed a brand new Airflo Ridge Line Tactical Trout fly line on a new reel. The line had two factory loops on either end. So, against my better judgement, I went ahead and installed a looped leader. I then spent the next day on the stream clearing the loop-to-loop connection hang-ups repeatedly from my guides. When I got home, the first thing I did was clip the loop off the end of the fly line and install a Leader Link. Problem solved. Regards, Flyman
Last Edited By: Flyman615 07/18/2008 18:47.
Edited 1 time.
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greendrake ll |
#34 | |||
Empty Creel wrote: Empty Creel, I have been using no-knot eyelets(push in) for over 30 years and have never had one pull out,even on trout up to 6 1/2 lbs.They are on all my lines but 2 and those have the old original Dave Whitlock method of super gluing the leader butt into a hole in the end of the line that was made with a hot needle.Never had one of those fail either.To insure that both methods go smoothly through the guides with no hang ups I coat the juncture with a small amount of pliobond. |
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WatercolorMan |
#35 | |||
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Steeldog
You can always carry a spool and just switch it over. |
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fishbum |
#36 | |||
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I use a very specialized method of fishing wet flies for big bluegills. The push-in eyes that greendrake II uses is just the ticket. My method requires you to
bring the leader into the guides when landing a fish. Try 12' to 16' of level 2# Maxima for a leader.
I have never had one fail. I know one guide on the AuSable River in Michigan that has used them for years. He don't have failuers either. Would not be good for business. I have had braided loops and whipped loops in the end of the fly line fail while steelhead fishing. I don't know that I have ever had a nail knot fail. fishbum |
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