Can anyone tell me if it is safe to finish a rod with multiple coats of tung oil instead of a varnish ?
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Tung oil
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 mikegsp |
Tung oil |
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Posts: 9 07/30/2008 19:06 |
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Steve Bohrer |
Tung Oil | #1 | ||
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Posts: 442 07/30/2008 19:35 |
What most people call tung oil is really a tung oil varnish. However it does not have any UV blocking that exterior varnish such as NMcCloskeys red can has. It's great for interior furniture, but I would not use it on a fly rod. |
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AJ Bamboo |
#2 | |||
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Posts: 726 07/30/2008 22:46 |
8 to 10 coats of tung oil will work fine, each coat 24 hours apart and wait 72 for the last coat. it usually will have to be refreshed every year with another
coat. important! do not color preserve the wraps, translucent wraps only
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mikegsp |
TUNG OIL | #3 | ||
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Posts: 10 07/31/2008 08:00 |
Thank you gentlemen for your quick response. I'll let you know how it comes out. mikegsp
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Zenkoanhead |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 1353 07/31/2008 12:26 |
I have used tung varnish on many projects but prefer the characteristics of General Arm-R-Seal in satin, if you can find it at your Woodcraft store. The
General is a wiping varnish but dries fast, flat, and is easily polished. I use it for both blank and wraps. Don
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thousandstar |
#5 | |||
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Posts: 52 07/31/2008 19:08 |
Will tung seal the wraps and give silk that nice poured on look? I've used Birch wood Casey Tung oil on a Model 94 Winchester stock that I restored and
loved it.
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saguache |
tung on wraps | #6 | ||
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Posts: 242 07/31/2008 21:44 |
You must varnish the wraps.
Saguache |
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jaybird |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 945 07/31/2008 21:50 |
A 50/50 mixture of tung oil and dewaxed shellac flakes (dissolved in denatured alcohol), makes a wonderful hard, low build finish. Something along the lines of
the old Powell finish.
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Zenkoanhead |
#8 | |||
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Posts: 1354 08/01/2008 09:52 |
You can finish wraps with tung varnish, but it takes a lot of coats and you do not get that honey covered look. The Birchwood Casey true oil is linseed based
as is the Arm-R-Seal. I find that if you apply wiping varnish to the wraps with a spatula it builds up much quicker than if applied with a brush. If you want
to see wraps and blank completed with a wipe on, my friend Robin just posted my most recent project, a Payne 97. The pix don't show the finish to best
advantage, but perhaps you will get an idea. Don
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wb4tjh |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 342 08/02/2008 11:29 |
Anybody familiar with how Bob Lancaster's tung oil rods are finished? I have a two year old 7.5' Bighorn River model that I love. I have put a couple
of coats of good hard Minwax paste wax on it and buffed it to a beautiful sheen, and it repels water very well. But I am wondering what other maintenance I
might need to do to the tung oil finish over the years. You can tell by looking at it that it's extremely thin build. Anybody familiar with Bob's
finish techniques? It sure is a beautiful rod.
Fine flyrods can be made from different materials, but bamboo is the Benchmark against which all the rest are compared......
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Dnb57 |
#10 | |||
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Posts: 2 08/02/2008 12:40 |
Don(Zenkoanhead), how many coats do you apply on the average to the blank. From what I can see from Robin's pictures the finish is really pretty(I
especially like the reelseat and handle, very nice.) I assume you put some type of wax over that or do you leave it alone. I have a low ceiling in my shop (I
won't core the floor or punch out a section of my ceiling) so it's a hassle to dip. I have been looking something different and this maybe the ticket.
Thanks, Dave |
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stephen kiley |
#11 | |||
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Posts: 271 08/02/2008 13:48 |
you can make a wipe on varnish out of just about any varnish . 1 part varnish 1 part artist grade turp. apply like tung oil. thanks steve
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ghotierman |
Tung Oil | #12 | ||
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Posts: 1 08/02/2008 18:26 |
When you do your 50/50 mix of tung oil and shellac, what "cut" are you using for the shellac?
Wayne |
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Zenkoanhead |
#13 | |||
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Posts: 1355 08/03/2008 22:19 |
Dave. I take a coffee filter and wet a small section, then wipe on the General in 12 inch applications. Takes only a couple minutes for the entire blank. I
would guesstimate 5 coats for a reasonable finish. I watch my progress with a 10x jeweler's loupe. The General dries fast, so you can put on 3 coats a day.
After 24 hours, the final coat is polished out with a Sand Turtle Gleemer I get at Sally's Beauty supply. 1 or 2 Gleemers per rod. I generally polish the
blank before wrapping. Don
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Dnb57 |
#14 | |||
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Posts: 3 08/04/2008 00:05 |
Don,
Thanks for the information. I will stop by Woodcraft and pick up a can of the General and give a try. I watched their video on Woodcraft's website and was very impressed with the application and finish. I would have never thought about using a nail gleemer to finish it off before waxing. They're pretty cheap in price also. That's one thing I like about this board, you learn a lot of neat tips to try. Thanks again, Dave |
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Zenkoanhead |
#15 | |||
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Posts: 1356 08/04/2008 09:58 |
I forgot to mention that waxing is not necessary or desirable with the General, Dave. You may want to add another coat of varnish at some point. If you go to
the craft store, you can get a package of plastic palette knives, along with the little bottles to hold enough varnish for one project. I use the narrowest
blade to apply varnish to the wraps. It allows a little more varnish onto the wraps on each application. If I go off wrap, I lightly floss using unwaxed dental
floss along the edge to clean it off. Let me know how you like the Arm-R-Seal. After enough coats are on the wraps, use the green side of the Gleemer to buff
the wraps, then the white side for a final polish. Don
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