I know you can break a tip on a graphite rod with a beadhead , can a beadhead break a tip on a Bamboo rod. Thanks
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Beadhead
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Beadhead |
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Posts: 19 03/01/2008 12:54 |
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mer |
#1 | |||
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Posts: 2868 03/01/2008 13:32 |
A good question. Maybe, maybe not
 I think a bamboo rod would be less likely to break if a beadhead ticked it, but a lot depends on the rod and the size of
the beadhead. Most of the time graphite will get a little nick in it from a beadhead; this sets up what is called a stress riser. Eventually the rod when
loaded will break at that point.
The simple thing is to open your stroke a little bit, no tailing loops.
The north side of my town faced east, and the east was facing south
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SnooKen |
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Posts: 482 03/01/2008 20:01 |
I agree with Mer. What would most likely occur with cane would be a superficial dent in the enamel and the underlying power fibers might be pushed sideways
from the apex of the impact point but unlikely to result in significant reduction in blank strength.
Ken |
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john channer |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 536 03/03/2008 23:16 |
Unless it's something 9' long with a decal on it, it's disrespectful to fish a beadhead on a bamboo rod, use your Sage, it deserves it(sorry,
couldn't help myself).
john |
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mer |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 2876 03/04/2008 06:39 |
John, that's funny.
Beadheads on bamboo are out, but PT nymphs tied in the Sawyer style with copper wire are ok. Makes perfect sense to me.
The north side of my town faced east, and the east was facing south
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BobS |
#5 | |||
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Posts: 832 03/04/2008 07:44 |
Not a big fan of beadheads on bamboo, but am not willing to give up #24 zebra midges (inter alia) on that principle.
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mer |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 2878 03/04/2008 07:57 |
Bob, there's a huge difference between a #24 beadhead and a #6 beadhead (pun not intended, at least I don't think so)
The north side of my town faced east, and the east was facing south
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freestoner |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 426 03/04/2008 09:17 |
~fiberglass~
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pvansch1 |
#8 | |||
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Posts: 3386 03/04/2008 09:18 Moderator |
John,
What's worse beadheads or split shots?
Casting with an open loop reduces the chance of hitting the blank with the fly or rig. Pete |
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SnooKen |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 488 03/04/2008 19:16 |
John;
When I evolved to the higher plane of cane I did make some changes in my tackle box. Now I only use rubbercore sinkers on my worm rigs. Still, getting worm juice on the rod and grip is unsightly. Is there a wax you'd recommend for the blank. I've found that duct tape protects the cork pretty well. And the slower action of cane rods has really cut down on the worm loss rate I was getting with fast action graphite. 
Ken |
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Cane Head |
#10 | |||
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Posts: 2159 03/06/2008 14:06 |
What's so taboo about bead heads? No different than using splitshot on the leader or lead wire wrapped around the hook shank. All do the same thing -
get the fly down. And all are going to add momentum to the fly if it hits the tip on an errant cast.
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ibookje |
#11 | |||
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Posts: 1128 03/06/2008 18:48 |
I fish bead heads most of the time. The clue to it is to keep the line under tension when casting and after both back and forward cast to 'point' the
rod tip into the direction of the cast to prevent the bead head hitting the rod.
Also goes for fishing with graphite rod, etc. Jay |
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SnooKen |
#12 | |||
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Posts: 492 03/06/2008 19:05 |
Jay is on the money regarding the casting aspect of weighted flies. You've got to open the loop up a little bit, pause a fraction longer at the end of back
and forward casts and get the rod out of the casting plane before that little rock(et) comes by your head. The only difference I see between beadheads and
other weighted flies is that, like Clousers, the mass is focused in a very hard object at the front end of the projectile. Now beadbutt flies, on the other
hand.........
Ken |
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john channer |
#13 | |||
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Posts: 544 03/08/2008 00:26 |
Sorry, I should have made it clearer that i was joking, I really don't care what flies anyone uses on any kind of rod, that's your business. To answer
the question, sure, a good size bead head can do just as much damage to cane as to graphite, tho I believe the cane rod will take a harder hit with a larger
fly than graphite. If you want to avoid the problem, either don't use big bead heads or figure out how to cast them so you don't hit the rod. I'm
not that good a caster so I don't use the flies, flyrods work best for me with single unweighted flies. I would rather catch them on top anyway.
john |
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thegubster |
#14 | |||
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Posts: 1152 03/08/2008 02:49 |
If I decide I need to get my fly down I use moldable, lead putty on the tippet knot.
That said, don't look into my wet boxes as I have a lot of beaded flies left over from my graphite days (of which I'm still 50/50 'boo/graphite!) As Mer said, open her up a bit. Jeremy. |
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Brian Shaffer |
#15 | |||
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Posts: 925 03/08/2008 04:46 MO/ARK Trout Bum |
Arent there times for graphite and times for cane ? I am one who would not risk a metal bead hitting any bamboo rods.
Unless the shad are coming thru the dam at Lake Taneycomo, that is time for a tungsten beaded Madonna on my Heddon B/B 2.5F 8ft 6in, a rod I cant wait to land that brownie on in a little bit of water running. Now if it would just stay cold enough for the shad to die - Brian
" Just once, I wish a trout would wink at me. "
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SnooKen |
#16 | |||
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Posts: 502 03/08/2008 09:10 |
John, even if you weren't kidding it wouldn't have changed the high level of respect I have for you as a person and a maker. Your thoughts and opinion
are always respected here and I've learned a lot from you over the years. Thank you for that. I'd also rather see the rise and take 10 times more than
an underwater interception, whether fishing fresh or salt. About the same preference factor holds true for flies I've tied myself versus store bought and,
in fresh water, cane over graphite.
Now, if I can just figure out how to get those worms to float....... 
Ken |
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Flyman615 |
#17 | |||
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Posts: 2588 03/08/2008 09:52 |
Personally, I use beadheads a lot. (I much prefer weighting the fly to adding weight to the leader.)
Then too, our hatches are few and far between, so if you want to catch fish and fish year around, you'd better be an accomplished nymph fisherman. That said, I don't use beadheads lager than size 14 on bamboo. Works for me. I've never damaged a rod with a small beadhead...knock on cane! Regards, Flyman 
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john channer |
#18 | |||
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Posts: 547 03/09/2008 11:18 |
Ken;
Remembering back to a youth misspent with a spinning rod in hand, I seem to recall that a shot of air with a hypodermic needle will encourage most worms to float. And thanks for the kind words, glad to be of some help. john |
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gatroutboy |
#19 | |||
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Posts: 49 03/09/2008 12:17 |
I too spend a good amount of time dead drifting beadhead nymphs, at certain times of the year its the only way to get any hookups. I greatly prefer casting
dries to rising fish, but when thats not an option I have no problem fishing a small indicator and a beadhead nymph. I have found that opening up your loop is
the key, and i have never had a problem with my flies hitting my rod....usually because I use extra caution when I'm fishing cane instead of graphite. I
actually prefer nymphing with longer 8'6ft bamboo rods over graphite, since they are slower I feel they do a better job and have more open loops, just my
opinion of course.
Rich |
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gofish60 |
#20 | |||
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Posts: 1646 03/09/2008 13:06 Registered User |
What works best for me is a dry (crackleback, adams, klinkhammer, etc.) as an indicator with a size 18 or 20 BH Prince Nymph as a dropper. That way if the fish
hit my indicator, they get a surprise.
A renowned and famous WI spotted Dace chaser uses a crackleback with a BH Pink Squirrel dropper. Claims it works good for him too. gofish |
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