Thanks,
Chris
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chrislee85 |
Beginning the Thomas Penrose Planing Forms |
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I have some bad news....I now have all the supplies to begin making some planing forms. I am using Thomas Penrose' instructions. For those of you who
have already followed his instructions, does anyone have any tips or advice that might help me out?
Thanks, Chris |
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pvansch1 |
#1 | |||
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Be prepared for sore arms, long hours of filing.
Keep the Advil handy. Pete |
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chrislee85 |
#2 | |||
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Ya, I have already experienced that and not even through 1/2 of one side yet.
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timmy |
#3 | |||
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I made my forms to his plans and it all went surprisingly smoothly. The only major places I diverged from the instructions are that I put the push and pull
bolts on opposite sides, for the reasons Oyster Bamboo describes here. And the major
thing I found helped was to glue and entire three square file to the "plane" instead of just using a section. I got VERY bored of the piece of file
falling off the block. Using a whole file gives more gluing area and seemed to solve the problem.
I also made two different file planes, a fine one, and I also found a bastard cut three square for roughing. This makes cutting the groove very quick, but only use the bastard for the butt side (I know!!). Tim.
Last Edited By: timmy 04/02/2008 15:46.
Edited 1 time.
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timmy |
#4 | |||
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Also, cut the tip side first. That way, when you mess up and cut the tip too deep (see the above post), you can just call that the butt side and carry on,
older and wiser.
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RABRods |
#5 | |||
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I made my forms using his plans. They came out great!! I agree with the others I think I put in somewhere around 80 hours a lot of filing. I used a flat
bastard file glued to a block of MDFand a course honeing stone(with diesel for a lubricant -wear rubber gloves) for the surface and a full 7 inch 6o degree
file tip and end cut off . I also made a cutter using a 60 degree carbide (there is one like it in the lovely reed if you can find a copy). I agree with the
other post do the tip side first. Measure often!! I did some test drilling on a floor drill press and although I think it is possible to do it on one I opted
to let a friend with a bridgeport give me a hand it had a digital read out and he was able to drill ream and tap with it and it still to over 8 hours you may
want to do some test holes. One more tip on the push bolts drop a steel ball bearing(I used ones from a bicycle) in the hole before putting in the allen screw
it helps smooth out the operation and helps the form wear from the bolt
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chrislee85 |
#6 | |||
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Has anyone had any trouble with the steel bars rusting after they have been filed? Looks like mine are starting to somewhat rust on the parts that have been
filed.
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jasonklett |
#7 | |||
chrislee85 wrote: I'm in the process of making metal forms too and I've been keeping them good and oily until they're finished to prevent surface rust. I was thinking of using cold blue(I have a big bottle left from refurbishing a rifle) to help prevent rust once they're finished. Any thoughts? |
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caneguy |
Planing Form Rust prevention | #8 | ||
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I have found that simply waxing the ferrous metal tools in my workshop does a pretty good job of preventing rust. Should work great for planing forms. FWIW
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Liakhov |
#9 | |||
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I am making a planning form using these instructions. I had a few problems when drilling holes for the bolts. I have no drill press vise but I can tell you
that it would be very handy. I also couldn't find any bolts that are shown there, so they were machined for me on the lathe, and they didn't come out
perfect as well. I could put only a few of these bolts into place, others were stuck halfway. I then redrilled the holes and used regular straight bolts, and
they fit pretty much well, although some of them are going very tight. All I need to do now is the groove. Hope everything goes smooth on this stage of work!
Last Edited By: Liakhov 04/20/2008 04:00.
Edited 2 times.
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chrislee85 |
#10 | |||
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I am still having trouble with my planing forms rusting. I have not completed them yet, and would like any feedback anyone might have to offer in completing
these forms. Just so long as I keep oil on them they are fine, but I was curious as to how I can prevent rust long-term.
To those who have made their own forms, have ya'll done anything after the filing to prevent rust? As always, thanks. |
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canerodscom |
#11 | |||
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To prevent rust on planing forms, use them often and well. The sliding of the plane back and forth along the surface of the bars, and the bamboo back and forth
in the grooves, will prevent any trace of rust from showing up. Oh, the sides may rust... but that's no great thing.
Harry
Harry Boyd
maker@canerods.com http://www.canerods.com |
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thousandstar |
#12 | |||
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I'm also in the process of making a set of Thomas Penrose planeing forms. I'm almost done with the tip side of the 60 degree groove. This groove is
taking me forever. I've worn 2 triangle files completely smooth. I read in this thread that someone used a bastard file to rough out the groove. Are you
just holding it at an angle or is there some trick to it? Does it give a nice uniform triangle shape?
As for rust. Everytime I;m done working on the forms I spay it down with WD40 and wipe. I've had no problems with rust. |
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oddsnrods |
#13 | |||
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Made my forms, apart from the grooves. Cost me $100 to get them machined at the local tech. college. Money well spent.
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aparramoure |
#14 | |||
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Now for the "FUN" part..........the tapered groove.
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chrislee85 |
#15 | |||
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I haven't made much progress, but am still filing down the sides of them with them clamped together. I have had trouble with shreds of steel getting caught
in the file and thus making an "indention" or scratch on the sides. Also, making it hard to continue filing without cleaning off the file after every
two or three runs. Has anyone had similar problems?
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thousandstar |
#16 | |||
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Me too, get some filing oil, that will help clear the file of filings and makes things much smoother.
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chrislee85 |
#17 | |||
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What kind of oil would be filing oil?
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thousandstar |
#18 | |||
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I'm sorry, its sharpening oil. Its the same oil that you would use to sharpen your planer blade. It lubricates without creating a molecular barrier between
the two surfaces. Some people also use any light oil, such as 3&1 oil, diesel fuel, etc. It starts getting really messy and you have to make sure and wipe
off the metal filings goop from the forms before you check your measurements, but this will greatly reduce the amount of metal filings that get stuck in the
file and scratch the form also the sides of the groove with start to become buttery smooth. (I learned this the hard way)
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David Bolin |
#19 | |||
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You guys are bringing back painful memories. If you can successfully complete a set of metal forms, there's not doubt that you'll be able to make rods.
With no metal working experience, I stumbled around with drilling the holes...until the local machinist supplier suggested cutting oil. That really helped. If
you're struggling with the file planes, take a look at mine on Todd's site at http://www.bamboorodmaking.com/html/jigs__tool_building.html. They're
really simple and worked great. Use the bit plane to do most of the filing and switch to a file plane when you're getting close to final depth. Also, Harry
mentioned that leaded steel is much easier to work with. I would use leaded steel if I ever do it again.
David |
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chrislee85 |
#20 | |||
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Hi David thanks for the tips. I have followed your blog on rodmaking and have enjoyed reading your research. I just graduated from Harding and was fishing the
same waters before I graduated.
Did you do anything after you filed the forms to keep them from rusting? |
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