In all the pics that I see posted, the rods all look so polished and with a high luster. What does everyone use to make them look so good?
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bamboo care
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 hexfly |
bamboo care |
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Posts: 5 12/26/2008 18:57 |
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rlnunleycom |
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Posts: 407 12/26/2008 19:39 |
Simple. Dry them thoroughly before you put them away and once a year or so, I'll put a coat of butchers wax on the rod and polish it out well. Other
than that, I don't do anything special to my personal rods except fish them, clean them and dry them (cleaning sometimes only involves dipping them in the
river I'm fishing in before wiping them down with a towel).
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Nympher1 |
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Posts: 312 12/26/2008 20:34 |
I agree with Bob... once a year (now is the time for me) I polish all of my personal rods with Butcher's wax... I do the same with any rods I take in for
repairs.. a polish with Butcher's wax before returning it to the owner...
ron |
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hexfly |
butchers wax | #3 | ||
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Posts: 6 12/26/2008 21:39 |
What is "Butchers Wax"
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 fishbum |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 221 12/26/2008 21:54 |
I use Nu-Finish automotive wax in the bright orange plastic container. If it is safe for clear coat on the cars finish it is probably safe for varnish. I also
regularly use a Q-tip to clean the female ferrule. After cleaning the male slide I lubricate with a thin coating of candle wax. The cork gets cleaned in the
river. Make sure it is dry before putting away in its tube.
One last thing, fish the darned thing like there is no tomarrow. fishbum |
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teter |
#5 | |||
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Posts: 1154 12/27/2008 00:10 |
hexfly wrote: It's a brand of paste wax made for wood floors, furniture, etc. You can get it at any hardware store. Just rub it on and polish it off. |
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levertonhatches |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 552 12/27/2008 12:22 |
"Butcher's Wax" used to be known as Butchers Bowling Alley Wax. Provides a durable, lustrous finish. We used it to polish the barracks floors in
Officer Candidate School -- such a bright finish you could shave in it.
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Nympher1 |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 314 12/27/2008 19:52 |
fishbum,
regards, ron |
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PYochim |
#8 | |||
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Posts: 506 12/27/2008 20:06 |
And don't forget to clean the cork. I get a lot of crap on the Winston site for cleaning the "fish goobers" from my grips.
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fishbum |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 222 12/27/2008 22:20 |
Nympher1 wrote: Lubricate, don't lubricate. People are free to do what ever thay want about lubricating ferrules. Myself, I have had good luck over the years keeping my ferrules lubricated with a very thin layer of candle wax. My fathers pre-WW2 South Bend fly rod was lubricated with candle wax and it still fits good. I have what's left of my grandfathers rod and the ferrule fit good on that too. The evidence I have supports lubrication. Have a Happy New Year and may the fish you catch be big-uns. fishbum |
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rckdr |
#10 | |||
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Posts: 21 12/28/2008 02:09 |
I've posted this in other places and I'll say it again. The best protection you can put on your bamboo rod is a product called Renaissance Wax. This
was formulated about forty years ago by a chemist under contract from the British Museum. It is an acid free, nonabrasive microcrystalline wax. Most museums
now use it to protect their fine antiques, artwork, even old photographs. Chances are the Ansel Adams print you see hanging in a museum was coated with it.
There are four main enemies of the varnish on your rod: Acids, water, pollutants, and UV light. Acids from your hands attack the varnish everytime you handle your rod. Unless you fish a limestone stream, the water in the stream is usually acidic as well (from tannic acid) and may contain pollutants. Wax such as Butcher's wax eventually turns acidic as well, which is why wax is not usually recommended for long terrm preservation. Renaissance wax puts a ph neutral waterproof coating on bamboo rods. It cleans old contaminants from the surface, then it keeps acids and pollutants from coming into contact with the varnish and also probably prevents water from seeping through small defects in the varnish that develope from use. It is also clear, so it doesn't leave a white residue like wax does when it gets into small crevices or knurling on hardware. Polishing a rod with it takes about 5 minutes or less. No, I don't work for the company, but I swear by this stuff ever since I came across it years ago while working on archival preservation of photographic materials. You can get it from most woodworking suppliers including www.woodraft.com, or from www.lightimpressions.com. It's not cheap. There are also some web pages that go into exhaustive detail about its archival qualities, chemical makeup and uses. I don't remember the links but you can find them by googling Renaissance Wax. If you own a rod made by one of the masters, past or present, I think you owe it to the maker and to future generations to protect it with this stuff. Two other tips: Polish your rods with 100% cotton cloths only. An all-cotton undershirt or cotton polishing rags from an automotive store work fine. All other fibers will scratch the finish. Manufacturers sometimes lie about fiber content. You can test the cloth by lighting the corner with a match. Cotton will burn evenly. Artificial fibers will fizzle and burn unevenly and produce tiny balls of melted plastic. Also, if your rod was just made, you should wait a while for the solvents in the varnish to finish evaporating before you polish it. |
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Paul B |
#11 | |||
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Posts: 206 12/28/2008 14:29 |
"In all the pics that I see posted, the rods all look so polished and with a high luster. What does everyone use to make them look so good? "
Don't forget a lot of the rods shown are new and a lot have not been fished or fished with regularly. Paul B |
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levertonhatches |
#12 | |||
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Posts: 553 12/29/2008 09:54 |
Do y'all wax your impregnated rods?
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rlnunleycom |
#13 | |||
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Posts: 412 12/29/2008 10:18 |
No, I don't.
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thegubster |
Another "OCS" guy... | #14 | ||
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Posts: 1500 12/29/2008 10:51 |
levertonhatches wrote: Hey, I went to OCS too leverton....Over Close to Saigon..... 
It was the joke at that time. My mother was SO proud .. until I let on a moment later. Jeremy. |
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upthecreek |
#15 | |||
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Posts: 90 12/29/2008 12:50 |
I use a product called,"Feed-N-Wax" ... it's a made with beeswax and orange oil. Very happy with it.
Steve V.
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Trouter2.thebasspond |
#16 | |||
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Posts: 44 12/29/2008 13:01 |
I wonder if anyone has any experience with these "Murphy's" soft wipes, advertised as Ideal for cleaning fine wood furnture, cabinetes and
tables, wood doors and wood trim ...Paul
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rckdr |
#17 | |||
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Posts: 22 12/30/2008 23:37 |
I guess no one is listening to me. None of these products should touch a fine bamboo rod unless you can verify that they are acid free. You may be pleased
with them now, but check back with me in 30 years.
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thegubster |
#18 | |||
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Posts: 1503 12/31/2008 12:47 |
Actually rckdr, there likely were a few who took note of your post. I'm one of them and appreciate the comments although I didn't post. I have this "thing" about waxes too, coming from a furniture-making background as a serious, previous woodworking hobbyist. I took note and copied your links for future refs. You have shown me more than I knew before about waxes. We're an anal lot, aren't we... Thanks.
Jeremy. edit...I just went over those links (even WoodCraft) I saved and saw little regarding Ren. waxes though.
Last Edited By: thegubster 12/31/2008 12:55.
Edited 3 times.
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Tim Anderson |
#19 | |||
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Posts: 6 12/31/2008 14:33 |
rckdr wrote: As an amateur who builds a few rods for "home consumption" and friends, I leave any concern about my rods in 30 years to those who are certain they are building the Leonards and Garrisons of the future. The sweat from my hands while fishing is probably far worse for the finish on my rods than any wax will ever be. Besides, I love the look of finely polished paste wax on a rod I have just spent a month or so fishing with. Don't worry, in 30 years my eyes won't be able to see any bad effects from the wax. |
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Eric Peper |
#20 | |||
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Posts: 69 12/31/2008 15:31 |
Just a quick FYI . . . a quick Google search using the Froogle option turned up four-plus pages of sources for Renaissance Wax, including the unspeakable site.
Prices ranges from $16+ to $28+ depending on size of container.
EP |
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