I recently aquired a 9' 3/2 Phillipson rod where the ferrule fit between the mid and the two tips was too tight. One of the tips would only slide about
half way in without forcing it. The other would go almost all of the way in but not quite. I cleaned both male ferrules and the female ferrule on the mid
with a q-tip. The inside of the female was pretty dirty. The tip that used to go almost all of the way in now fits perfect, slides in easy and comes apart
with a nice pop. Now here's the weird part....the tip that was way too tight and would only go half way in is now way too loose. It's so loose now
that it can spin around inside the female ferrule. If I seat it with the guides facing in opposite directions it's a little tighter. Does anyone know
what could explain this? Do you think I have a bent ferrule or something? I guess cleaning them was the right thing to do because at least I have one tip
that now fits well, but I find it really odd that the tip that used to be tighter is now looser???
Thanks for any help,
Dan
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Ferrule fit
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 Telecaster.jefffsbeardboard |
Ferrule fit |
Lead | ||
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Posts: 30 12/29/2008 10:48 |
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canerodscom |
#1 | |||
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Posts: 1913 12/29/2008 21:04 Bamboo preacher |
Tele,
My guess, and it's just a guess, is that someone had applied some wax, or varnish, or superglue, or something to the tighter of the two male ferrules. When you cleaned it, you removed that stuff. You can use beeswax to help tighten the fit a little, but you'll have to apply it several times a year. Harry
Harry Boyd
maker@canerods.com http://www.canerods.com http://www.canerods.blogspot.com |
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creakycane |
#2 | |||
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Posts: 1978 12/29/2008 21:43 |
Disclaimer: Try this at your own risk. Properly done, this will solve many metal to metal loose fit problems, especially if one male fits fine, the other
loose.
Get a spool of larger diameter solder wire. Take the loose male ferrule and wrap the mating surface with solder, like a solenoid. Lay the wrapped ferrule on a solid surface, guiides up, and firmly tap down on the ferrule on its side with a hammer, compressing the solder around it, squeezing it. After a few taps, remove the solder and try the fit. Repeat until a tight fit is achieved. The male will be out-of-round, but you can not tell by eye. Start up near the waist of the ferrule where the lip of the female mates with the male when fully seated. A few taps up near the cane end of the male ferrule will often tighten a metal/metal clicking ferrule up nicely. John Pickard described this technique to me and it works very well. I've also been told that some rod houses, particularly Granger, used this type of technique to fit ferrules on new rods. It works well if done properly. Wax doesn't. |
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rckdr |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 23 12/30/2008 23:45 |
This highlights a good tip: before buying a rod always clean the female ferrule with a Q-tip and then check the fit of the ferrule. I once had the exact same
thing happen with a 1972 Leonard Duracane. I sent it to Thomas and Thomas and they were able to tighten the fit for a nominal charge. I think that what they
do is put the female ferrule between two blocks that have a groove that is slightly smaller in diameter than the outer diameter of the female ferrule and then
they tap gently on it to slightly decrease the diameter.
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Housatonic Quill |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 690 12/31/2008 04:46 |
Creaky -
That's a very neat variation on the old drill chuck routine, which I've never felt very comfortable with. Just tried it -it works! I don't like wax either - it builds up inside the female, carries dirt into the fit, and you can wind up with surprising scratches on the mating surfaces. As Harry says, if you do use beeswax, use it with care and keep it fresh and clean.
The more I think I know, the less I know I know.
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eastprong |
#5 | |||
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Posts: 406 12/31/2008 08:44 |
How does compressing a male ferrule that is already too loose make it fit better? Is it because you're making the ferrule oblong, not round? Wouldn't
this mean that only a part of the male ferrule (the long diameter of the oblong shape) is actually "fitting"?
--Rich |
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tiptop |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 449 12/31/2008 12:09 |
Doesn't sound like a great idea to me, but on the other hand, the next step is ferrule replacement anyway. Don't know that I'd do it on a valuable
rod with impossible-to-get ferrules though. Sounds like T&T was actually swaging the female and keeping the round shape. Sounds like the best solution --
if you have the right tool.
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Housatonic Quill |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 691 12/31/2008 12:59 |
In a 3- or 4-jaw chuck, you're actually raising 3 or 4 new mating surfaces. The fit is imperceptibly out of round and very smooth and positive. This is
what "Sam" Carlson used to refer to as his "secret method" for rescuing those situations where one male fit the female and the other
didn't. As far as he was concerned, the result was "good enough for New York."
The solder technique could, if tapped in only one spot, make the slide slightly oval, but by an almost ridiculously small amount.
The more I think I know, the less I know I know.
Last Edited By: Housatonic Quill 12/31/2008 13:09.
Edited 1 time.
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hopkintoncane |
Female Ferrule adjustment | #8 | ||
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Posts: 291 12/31/2008 13:14 |
Art showed me a good solution to a female that might be worn a little large, use a wooden clothspin and a pair of large pliers or channel locks, fit the
clothspin over the female, and grip with the channel locks, gently squeezing and rotating each time a few degrees, work your way around the ferrule a couple of
times, move up the ferrule and repeat, till you've done the full length, then check the fit, worked great on an Edwards ferrule, Todd
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rckdr |
#9 | |||
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Posts: 25 12/31/2008 19:46 |
These all sound like viable solutions but the repair that T and T did for me was fast and quick. This was in 1982 and the ferrules still fit nice and tight
after using the rod extensively. Hopefully they still offer this service, but I have been told by various dealers that other professional restorers offer the
same service as well.
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john channer |
#10 | |||
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Posts: 682 12/31/2008 22:53 |
The best way short of replacing worn ferrules is to have the loose male slide plated, Dave LeClair used to offer this service, I don't know if he still
does. The next best is to compress the female slightly and refit the now too tight male that used to fit well. Or you can make the loose male slide slightly
out of round.
john |
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freestoner.fiberglassflyro... |
#11 | |||
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Posts: 3 01/02/2009 03:44 |
I have this problem with one of my rods. Mad scientist that I am, I'm going to try purposefully tarnishing the male ferrule, by putting it in a bag with
some old eggshells. My theory is that the small amount of sulfide gas from the decomposing eggshells should tarnish up the NS ferrule sufficiently that it adds
the same sort of diameter increase as plating.
I'll let you all know how that works out for me. |
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Nympher1 |
replate it!!! | #12 | ||
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Posts: 316 01/03/2009 07:31 |
If the rod is worth $50-$60 for repair, the get the male replated... Dave LeClair still offers this service, I just had ferrules done on an old GG 8642 and a
Leonard clone... they came out beautifully.....the wait is about 4 months though, so if you want something ready for spring you better contact him now...
best regards, ron |
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Watti |
#13 | |||
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Posts: 34 01/03/2009 08:13 |
Does anyone of you have experience how long electroplating last? Is there the danger of abrasion the plated material from the male ferrule over the time?
Thanks, Dirk |
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