Saddle & Ring Hook Tenders

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Joel Anderson	Saddle & Ring Hook Tenders		Lead	[-]
Posts: 98 03/21/2009 14:51	Tags : None I've decided to use a saddle ring hook tender for the PHY Para 15 I'm currently building. Having never used the type of hook keeper before, I'm struggling a bit with how to wrap it on. Most I have seen are wrapped "through" the saddle so there is no thread gap. I'm assuming this is accomplished by securing the leg on cork grip side with thread and then lifting up the other leg so you can continue the unbroken wrap under the saddle. I decided to wrap it on as you would a conventional hook tender (no thread under the saddle) and I'm not sure if I like it or not. Just wondering what others do; a picture or two would be helpful. Thanks, joel
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kimk		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 638 03/21/2009 15:19	You pretty much describe my method. It is important that the underside and lower edges of the strap be polished and burr free. I use my L thumb to trap the previous wraps, slide the next wrap under the strap and tuck it into place with my fingernail. Slow, but it works. I have also found that by running a loop of thread through the ring and taping it to the cork, I can pull the ring back over the wrapped foot and keep the ring from getting in the way. Sorry no pix. AgMD
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Joel Anderson	Redid it; Got it!	#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 99 03/21/2009 16:04	I decided to redo the hook tender wraps and, boy, am I glad I did. It looks great now. That trick with the thread really did the trick, KimK. It certainly simplified and facilitated things. You know, it would have been one of those things that would have been fine the way I wrapped it on originally, but every time I looked at that wrap in the future, I'd think, "I could have done that better." I'm so glad I took the time to do it right. Once again I bow to the vast knowledge and experience of our gracious board members. joel
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roadking2k1		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 11 03/21/2009 23:05	I talked to a guy who used super glue to stick the ring to the top of the loop for finishing. Keeps it out of the finish and breaks loose easily when done. Mike
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BruceHandley		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1178 03/22/2009 08:46 Crusty Old Fart	When working with ring guides or keepers I do it much the same way that Kimk described it. Something in his post that you should pay attention to is the cleaning up of the saddle, polish the foot and make it burr free. Its rather common when working on old rods to find some of the ring guides missing and/ or the wraps frayed. If you check the orig. saddles you'll often find that the maker never cleaned up the saddle foot and overtime the saddle eats thru the wrap. To keep the ring out of the way, I tape the ring down to the first section of wrap with "blue painters tape", that would be at the grip end of things. And to keep the ring out of the varnish when finishing I use a wire "gallows"taped to the grip to keep the ring vertical. Before tapping the gallows to the grip, wrap the nose of the grip with "saran wrap" to prevent damage to the cork, ask me how I know this!!! Flip ring guides are done in much the same way, and ALWAYS use the saran wrap on fresh varnish before mounting the "gallows". Bruce
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hopkintoncane	A couple of hook keeper rambling thoughts/observations	#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 359 03/22/2009 09:16	On the Montaugue mystery "Double Built" rod I just acquired, the builder wrapped only the "central" area of the HK wrap area first, and then wrapped from the winding check to the end of the HK wrap area, installing the HK and ending with a tip wrap, effectively "double wrapping" the middle where the HK hardware is located. There may very well have been some "under the hardware wrapping" going on, hard to see under the varnish. All in all, a very nice look for a double built rod. On hook keepers in general, while I understand the need to install them for authenticity purposes, personally, I never use them in practice. I follow the rule that the leader be about equal in length to the rod, and THEN I always tie on at least 18 inches of tippet material. With that amount of leader attached to the line, the line/leader connection is always somewhere between in the tip section when the HK is used to keep the fly and when I'm ready to fish, a whole bunch of wiggling or pulling in necessary to get the line out. Alternatively, I always hook my fly to the stripper on next guide up, and then wrap the leader down around the foot of the reel and then wind up. That way, when I'm ready to cast, a simple loosing of the line gives me a couple of feet of line outside of the tip, and I'm ready for action, Todd
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kimk		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 640 03/22/2009 10:17	I like the superglue idea. When I dip, I use a small wedge of wood, shoved between the arch of the strap and the bamboo under of it. This traps the ring so that it does not varnish itself to the wraps. Since I pre varnish all my wraps before dipping, the loss of dip varnish under the wedge is not a problem but the superglue idea is excellent. I'll try it next time. Thanks. AgMD
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BruceHandley		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1180 03/22/2009 11:27 Crusty Old Fart	Kimk, something I should have added to my post, I do all my finishing with a brush. Bruce
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