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Tip wraps

Author	Comment
57Clemson	Tip wraps		Lead	[-]
Posts: 15 04/13/2009 22:35	Tags : None One of the more difficult processes for me is matching wraps on borh tips. I find myself with one thread wrap too little or too much and having to take the wraps off and begin again. Exasperating to say the least. It shouldn't be this difficult. Could you share your method and make my life a little easier. Thanks in advance. Daveallace
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john channer		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 732 04/13/2009 23:42	Count turns, it's the only way I can keep any of my wraps the same. john
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Blue Quill		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 102 04/14/2009 00:43	Hi 57Clemson, Most snake guides have a mark/flat/crimp/line at the point where the snake loop transitions into each foot. It is on both feet at the same point. It is usually a small line and sometimes a very obvious flat pushed into the metal wire. It is caused by the four-slide machine which is used to make the snakes. All machine-made snakes have them to one extent or another. The nice thing about these marks is that they are perfectly equidistant from the center of the snake guide. By measuring your wrap distance from them it doesn't matter if the feet are perfectly matched length-wise to each other or from guide to guide. 1) Tape down the guide so that the center of the snake is at your measurement mark. 2) Set a pointy pair of dividers at the distance you want your wrap to be relative to the marks described at the beginning of this post. 3) Before you wrap, carefully put one point of the divider along side the mark on the snake, and gently poke the varnish with the other point. Wrap between the points and your wraps will always have matching lengths, and regardless of how many turns you use or how long each foot is. Remember you are just trying to mark the varnish with the dividers, not pierce it. However, even if you do poke through, the wrap varnish will fill in the minuscule mark under the thread. Chuck Last Edited By: Blue Quill 04/14/2009 00:45. Edited 1 time.
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rlnunleycom		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 510 04/14/2009 08:47	As Bluegill said, many guides have a definitely ledge pressed into them. Batson, PacBay, etc. This makes it very easy to *start* the guide wrap in the same place on the guide every time. I am assuming that you wrap down off of the foot onto the rod. If you don't, you might think about the benefits of doing it that way. May not be for everyone, but it sure works for me... works well for me... First you need to figure out a way to get the guides placed in the same place on both tips. Screw that tape measure stuff... Tape measures are made for making cabinets, not locating guides... on the other hand, tape measures could be useful for making a TOOL to locate guides!!! Make yourself a set of Guide Spacing Sticks. Here is a picture of mine. There are a LOT more than this, but these are my most popular rod sizes. There are at least twice as many sticks hanging on that same wall these days. Each stick has marks on either 2 or 3 faces, depending on whether they're guide sticks for 2 piece or three piece rods.. The marks on them are the spacing for the tips on the front face and the butt on one of the side faces (or the tips, mid and butt on 3 faces for three piece rods). If you look closely you can see the thin black lines on the boards. I center the top center of the loop of the snake guide over the mark, tape it in place then wrap it down, wrapping from the ledge on the guide foot, down to the rod. These boards are nothing more than 3/4" square boards with my guide spacing marked in them. The hole that I drill to hang them by is also bisected by a black line and that's where the tip top centers. Each board is the length of the FINISHED sections of their respective rods. Examples: The 7'6" 3 piece board is 30-3/8" long, the 7' 2 pc board is 42-3/8" long. These are easy to make and I believe every shop should have them. If you want a set, send my your guide spacing charts and for a nominal fee.... Just kidding... or not... OK, so you have two of the three things you need to get your wraps matched on the different sections. The third thing is COUNT YOUR WRAPS! I don't know how many rodmakers I've talked to and heard them scoff when I say I count my wraps and tell me they don't have to count, because they can tell when the wraps are the same size as the others... Yeah??? Well grab your damn calipers, Scooter, and let's measure them! They will not, in most cases, be the same length. There will be a thread or two difference in AT LEAST in each wraps, sometimes as much as a half a dozen threads difference. They can scoff and they can laugh at me all they want, but I'll stack my bookmatched tips against theirs ANY DAY!!! They *do not* wanna bet their milk and diaper money that theirs are more consistent than mine! So, the ledge on the guide foot gives you exactly the same starting place every time (assuming of course you wrap off of the guide down onto the rod, which IMHO is the best way to do it). The guide sticks give you perfect guide locations EVERY time. Counting wraps makes your windings exactly the same length every time. That's all you need to insure that your bookmatched tips have bookmatched windings. Bob RL "Bob" Nunley, Rodmaker Ozark Rodmaking School Last Edited By: rlnunleycom 04/14/2009 09:04. Edited 2 times.
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lewis2dl		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 52 04/16/2009 23:27	I have been taping down my guides. My friends that build graphite rods use a tiny drop of epoxy to hold the guide in place. Is this permissible with bamboo or is it a no no. I haven't tried it, but have wondered if it would work ok and not damage the rod in the process. Dean
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