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if it has the symmetric check like this (post 1958 ) :
you just have to disengage one pawl and engage the other:





if it's the older check - both checks intended for RHW only




there's also single-check Pridex, while they're made for RHW


single-check Pridex tuned for LHW

try flipping the pawl spring and see how it behaves.
If it doesn't engage, or is still stouter in RH wind than in RH pay, then you need to adjust the spring.
I service these reels, including a complete takedown cleaning and rebuild with tuning the spring.
I can also give you some tuning hints if you want to clean and tune it yourself.

first of all, you have to be careful bending springs, because if they break, what are you going to do.
The only guy that has these is in the UK and will only take pound-sterling (no paypal).
Over several years I have assembled a set of spring-bending pliers that have radii on every edge and contacting surface - no sharp corners to break springs.

spring timing (check the last photo above, this is a converted reel, tuned for LHW (counterclockwise rotation):
(BTW, the amount of lead in that photo appears exaggerated because of the oblique angle of the photo)

When the pawl is pointing directly at the center of the spindle, the spring tension is essentially the same in each direction, but you also gain just a touch of lightness due to the pawl shape and slot. For your adjustments, look at how the tip of the at-rest pawl can lead or follow on the spindle (like timing a car). If the pawl tip is slightly past the spindle in the direction of rotation, you're much lighter in the direction of rotation, and will be much stouter in the opposite direction. Too far with that same adjustment and the pawl won't engage. If the pawl is lagging on the spindle, the resistance will be equal in wind and pay, or may even be stouter in wind even with the pawl properly flipped.
The two bends on the bottom leaf are mainly what adjusts the timing on the pawl, and the overall spread adjusts the total tension. (And obviously, all three of these bend points affect both tension and pawl orientation to some degree).
knee
lower leaf
upper leaf

I'm increasing the bends in every one of these photos, because the article was about tired springs on very old Dingley reels. and OK, I'm using the wrong set of pliers as was pointed out to me when the photos were printed.

Usually on Young reels, you'll be decreasing the knee bend and may need to increase the upper leaf bend a little to add tension (load) to the spring.

when you have the spring where you want it, you bake in the oven at 350oF to set the final shape - 15 minutes is all you need, air cool. This temper keeps it from relaxing (at least quickly - it will still relax over decades, centuries, etc.) But the set temper significantly slows the rate of spring creep - the rate of creep increases as the ambient temperature gets closer to the set temperature. (You can't increase the set temperature too high, or you will soften the hardness of the spring)


I'd like to point out that I've done all the trial and error, and have a goal that I'm shooting for when I make the very first bend. It's easier for me to do than to describe...

if the set temperature is too low - your spring will be too soft after sitting the warm car trunk.

if the temperature is too high, it softens the base metal to a lower hardness and loses some of its spring - I don't know where that is, but it's probably between 400 and 500 degrees F and I've had luck even on brass springs so the 350 is both safe and effective.

Yes, a little bit goes a long way. Now that you know which way you need to go, bend a little and reinstall the spring to check the result. I use popsicle sticks and spanish cedar blocks to push springs in and out. When you like it - bake it.

reel lube? Hot Sauce. they make a Grease and Lube (light oil)
The blue above is Daiwa blue and that used to be my choice. However, after comparing used Daiwa blue and hot sauce, it's amazing how soft the Hot Sauce remains over long times, while the Daiwa blue gets stiff (as do most other greases).
when the grease is getting stiff, it's breaking down into waxes and organic acids. The waxes are what are so hard to remove on old reels.

Great reel, Ken and and will certainly convert if you reshape a set of new A-4 springs.
here's a photo of a Uniqua I converted so you can see the shape.

bend these gently, because they're thin and high-carbon
they will break (another reason to buy new springs to rebend - you don't want to break the old ones).
After you have it tuned to your liking, bake the spring in your oven at 350oF for 15 minutes to set the final shape.

several mechanical questions addressed on this thread, including spindle runout adjustments on prewar and postwar Young reels:
http://fiberglassflyrodders.yuku.com/topic/5550